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Chrysler 318 Stalling

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rumdrunksailor

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SO here's the issue, my starboard engine is stalling out. It will run fine for about an hour and then die. I have to let it cool before firing it up (maybe 10 minutes) and then it is hard to start. I have a new 1409 carb on there (stalled out with old AFB too), also new exhaust elbows. Engine seems to run at normal temperature at cruising speed but can boil over at higher rpms. I suspected vapor lock (still do) so I tried wrapping the old copper fuel line with rubber hose (at least the part from the fuel pump to the carb). I have also replaced the fuel filter. It should be noted that I only have one gas tank and the port engine doesn't die so I do not think it is the gas.

I have also switched it over to electronic ignition (pertronix).

The engine will start to stutter and lose power and then die. Also, if I back off the throttle even when it's running well it will start to stutter and die. Like I said after 10 minutes I can put the throttle in WOT position and get her to fire up after about 15 seconds.

Also, I checked timing after doing the sticky distributor maneuver I read about here. I have it timed at 5 degrees initial, but it is only at about 16 degrees at 3k rpm. I did not replace the coil when I put pertronix on but I did bypass the ballast resistor.

Thoughts?
 
fastjeff said:
Bad coil. It heats up and starts to break down.

Jeff
Click to expand...

I had a feeling that's why I mentioned it. I want to go with epoxy filled, correct?

Does the fact I have to open the throttle up to start her after stalling (which I don't have to do when its cold) fit with a failing coil though?
 
Some things you say sound as though a flooding condition may exist.
Does it start burning rich? What do your spark plugs "tell" you after the engine dies?

An infared thermometer might help determine how hot your float bowls are getting and you can compare to the other engine.
 
You removed the ballast resistor from the circuit as you should have. Pertronix distributors WILL NOT WORK unless you take the resistor out of the circuit. When you took the resistor out of the circuit you routed 14 volts (depending on your alternator output) directly to the coil. The coils you are running are designed to run on about 8 volts and have too much resistance, 3 Ohms I think, that's why you need coils that can take the heat and have low resistance .6 Ohms.

Pertronix sells low resistance coils which is what you need. http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/45000_volt.aspx

Look around on the Pertronix site and see what they say about the system you installed. Change your coils out and then work on the carb issue.

Give us an update.:cool:
 
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Did you come up with solution? having the same issue, started 1/2 way through the season last year. only difference is this is after 1/2 hour and engine temp is fine. I have a standard chrysler electronic ignition with a ballast resistor. I changed the ballast resistor, swapped ignition modules and coils. to no avail. Way overdue to be in the water, any thoughts?
 
Put in a new trigger sensor/ coil in the distributor. Not expensive, easy to change, and it's all that's left that you haven't changed.

Jeff
 
Another hit and run :rolleyes:, rumdrunksailor never got back with us to let us know his fix. Shame on him :mad:

I think Jeff nailed it :eek:...way to go Jeff.

orHisglory let us know the outcome.
 
sorry boys, not a rumdrunksailor. I have been struggling with it. spent time checking voltages and problem would not reoccur. was running engine (off idle) at 1500 rpms in drive. ran for well over an hour without fail. did this 2 separate time; decided to put it in the water as season is passing by.

left dock and within 20 minutes of leaving dock running at 2,200 rpms it started popping through carb, eventually lost rpms and died. didnt have time to check it then, went back the next day. brought rpms tp 2,200 at dock, lasted over an hour, then took it out 15 minutes out of the creek turned around came back, no failures (never raised rpm over 1,500 on cruise, but rpm has not mattered in the past). so now i am completely baffled. the only thing i do know (while i was testing voltage) is that one side of ballast resistor has 12v (like it should), but output side top post has 6volts, but lower post has only 3volts. i have to think there is something with this! port engine is 6v top and bottom posts. ground issue? but where?

BTW, i would have changed trigger but besides adjustment screw it appears to either be screwed from underneath, or stator is in the way of lifting locator pin from base plate of distributor (cannot really tell) stator looks like it would need to be pulled.
 
so an old post from a few years back with a similar situation, turned out to be voltage regulator. the low voltage issue is keeping me in a different direction. is that lower post of the ballast resistor grounded by distributor?
 
Popping though carb... advance timing issue. Have you checked base and advanced timing?

swap carbs.....twenty min job. See what happens.
 
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