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changing thermostats and salt deposits?

U

urbanrenewal

New member
When you change the thermostats on a 150 is there a way of flushing out the salt deposits you see in the housing under the thermostats? Should you run the engines without the ‘stats for a while to try and clear it out?
 
This is probably not the best answer you will get but I know you've been waiting for SOMEONE to respond so thought I'd jump in and say MERRY CHRISTMAS! And Christmas is probably why the forum activity has slowed waaaaay down.

I know of a product called SALT AWAY for flushing outboards and marine engines but I've never used it. You might look into that or, hopefully, someone else here has some experience with the stuff. I don't think that leaving the thermostats out would make much difference unless that was part of the instructions for a particular product. I wouldn't run an engine too long without them as that could cause other issues like fouled plugs and carbonizing of the cylinders and valves.

The bottom line is that even in fresh water (that's what I do most) the cooling passages eventually get caked with mineral deposits and it can be difficult to get them clean without literally boiling out the block and head in a hot tank solution.
 
not sure if this is a qualified answer myself. but i changed the water jacket and thermostat on my salt water 130, some deposits, nothing major but some caking. Just an uninformed opinion on what i saw, but I *seriously* doubt any claim water or salt away would clear an existing mineral deposit. When i had mine off i just used an abasive 3m pad (harbor freight cheaper) on a drill and a small on one a dremel for tight spots, even grabbed a file to get some other areas, then just used my air compressor to blow everything out....in other words i didn't treat it like surgery =)

A good bit got in the cooling system came out the exhaust, and the pee hole was clogged up a few times before everything got out of the system, don't think i'd want big chunks breaking though though if it was as bad as something like that.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. You pretty much supported my thought that the deposits are going to happen regardless. I flush my engines after every use but you should have seen what those old thermostats looked like after 400 hours.

Tom
 
If you can put vinegar in the cavity and let it sit that will help as much as salt away. They make a plastic unit for flushing build up out of RV hot water tanks. They are about $12 w/tax here and the do reach in the units about 10 inches and work ok for the pric.
 
Salt Away works well, but it IS pricey. Just follow the directions. A Google search will show other formulas that will work. The Salt Away flush adaptor is quite useful.

Running withoutout the T-stats for a couple of minutes is fine, but I wouldn't go much longer than 5 minutes or so. If the engine doesn't reach operating temperature in a short while, the ECM continues to pump in a richer fuel mixture, which can wash the oil from the cylinder walls, and with the rings not fully expanded, gasoline will find its way into your oil. It's quite important that the 4-stroke Hondas get up to operating temperatures fairly quickly. That's the reason I have installed external heat sensors and heat gauges for each bank of cylinders.
 
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