Changing Impeller 2003 40HP TLDI

[RHM]

I hate to even ask how to do this as ordinarily I would just take the boat to the mechanic but times are kinda tough around my place right now. I have a 2003 40HP TLDI and the "pee" is kinda weak. I bought the impeller and know to remove the bolts to drop the lower unit.

When I bought the part the parts guy was nice enough to tell me that I would have to disconnect the shift linkage and I think he wanted to tell me how but he got two calls at once so I just paid him and left.

Beyond taking the bolts out and dropping down the case how do you get the shifter loose? I would appreciate any advice anyone can give as I have never replaced an impeller before. I have plenty of tools and am fairly handy. Also, the tilt/trim did not work 100% correctly, you could hear the solenoid making contact, the battery did not seem weak. Should I replace this. The boat does not get used but about twice a year.

I hate not to take it to the shop but I am financially at the point to either do it myself or park the boat.

Thank you,

RHM

 

[pvanv]

What is your model? I am guessing it's a 40B. The skills to do a wp job are good to have. It's a job that half of my customers do themselves... some to save money, others because they get satisfaction from doing their own basic maintenance. The first time you do it, it will take a bit of time as you learn the procedure, but thereafter, it will go much faster.

The Factory service manual is a big help here, and a wise investment if you will be doing your own service. You do need the precise model to get the correct manual, as there are significant differences between early and late TLDI motors.

If the telltale nipple is clear, the low output could well be a worn water pump. Has the pump been serviced in the past? The factory recommendation is to inspect or replace that part annually. In clean, cold fresh water, we typically do them every 3 years unless symptoms indicate they need it sooner. I would recommend getting a full wp kit instead of just the impeller, as it includes the other wear items (guide plate and cup). Replacing just the impeller can have less than stellar results, and can lead to premature impeller wear, causing you to repair the wp more frequently.

The shift linkage is coupled with a brass sleeve, retained to the shift rods by stainless roll pins. To disconnect, drive out the lower roll pin. Tohatsu America has a (rather pricey) special punch that works very well for this job, but a 3mm drift will work pretty well. Don't lose the roll pin. Likewise, don't lose the impeller drive key. When inserting the new impeller, twist the driveshaft clockwise while lowering the wp housing into position, and the vanes will land in the right orientation.

After servicing the water pump, the skill will be in mating the LU back to the rest of the motor. Takes some skill, patience, and feel, to realign the shift rod, water tube, and index the driveshaft all at once.