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Change prop rotation on AQ280

J

joe_merchant

Regular Contributor
Currently, my AQ280 prop rotates counterclockwise (left hand prop). Since it's 35+ years old, was wondering if switching over to right hand rotation would affect the set of the clutch or gears in any way?
 
el_pescador said:
In a nutshell: no, it won't. Or I whould rather say: "It should not".
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Good answer - ever consider a career in politics? :D

I was pretty sure it shouldn't affect anything but wanted to ask. My transducer is on the right side of the prop and was told that the back side of the prop can cause "ghost fish" readings. Going to a four blade prop and thought I'd try to kill two birds with one stone.
 
joe_merchant said:
Good answer - ever consider a career in politics? :D

I was pretty sure it shouldn't affect anything but wanted to ask. My transducer is on the right side of the prop and was told that the back side of the prop can cause "ghost fish" readings. Going to a four blade prop and thought I'd try to kill two birds with one stone.
Click to expand...


Politics....hmmmm....maybe worth a try but I don't think I would survive for too long. I'm too honest. :D

Joe, the VP props in the AQ series are left handed by default. The only thing that I foresee potentially being affected by switching from a left to a right hand prop is the steering and handling or your boat. The steering can be easily corrected by adjusting the steering fin (trim tab), but I'm not sure about the handling. That's something you will have to test yourself.
 
Joe, I switched to RH rotation on my '72 v-hull and I found that it then tilted to one side when cruising with the same passengers, etc., so I switched it (and the prop of course) back to LH. Other than this, I did not have any other issues with RH rotation, but the list was enough for me to make the switch back to LH. Every boat is different so yours may not have this issue.
 
That's interesting. My boat is also a V hull of mid seventies vintage. I'll keep my fingers crossed and see what happens when the new prop arrives next week.
 
Actually, it does change the load on the bearings some, and it does change which driven gear is used in the transmission unit.
However, the same "main drive" gear would be used..... it's simply placing the greater load on the OTHER "driven" gear!

This would also change the load side of the two back-to-back tapered roller bearings for the main drive gear......technically speaking, that is!
(when you disassemble main drive gear bearings, you will always see that one side of the outer race will show a wear pattern much more so than the other side..... much like an auto differential unit bearing set)

LH prop lower unit is driven from the lower "driven" gear in the transmission. Up-Lift is placed on the brass split ring keeper (aka "wear washer") (these are a "wear item" and should be monitored..... this is important!)

RH prop lower unit is driven from the upper "driven" gear in the transmission. Down-Load is placed on the vertical shaft top nut! (this scenario rarely causes the need for the split ring keeper to be replaced)

It would also change the contact side of the drive and driven gears in the lower unit (single prop drive)..... and consequently, changes the load on the drive gear Needle Bearing to the opposite side!
Again, technically speaking.... but it can be seen visually!

How much will you gain? That would be the question. :rolleyes:

For those of us running LH Props and/or Duo Prop drives, we are driving on the lower "driven gear".
We'd best keep an eye on this split ring keeper when we service our transmissions.
Replace it the instant that it shows signs of expanding! (later drives went to an all steel wear washer)
 
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I think what Rick said is same thing I'm going to say but he knows how to word things much better than I. I was always taught to run a left hand if at all possible on the AQ series as this loads the bottom gear in the cluster in forward gear and transfers all the hoopala down thru the outdrive. Now in the RH direction in forward gear the top gear is the drive gear and the only thing holding all that force down is the top housing cap and those four allen bolts.
Yes the bottom brass split ring keeper can be a real ugly part when the steel keepers pull thru, makes for a really cool 2" diameter hole in the top cap and pretty colors in the water. Just hate it when they come in like that, "CHA CHING". Oh and Rick, I've been putting a steel/brass split ring keeper in place of the all brass one for 30 years on the higher horsepower engines, just gotta know what part to order from VP. It's a two peice affair. Used to put them in the offshore race boats and a few other tidbits to boot.
 
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boatdoc55 said:
..............

  1. Now in the RH direction in forward gear the top gear is the drive gear and the only thing holding all that force down is the top housing cap and those four allen bolts.
  2. Yes the bottom brass split ring keeper can be a real ugly part when the steel keepers pull thru, makes for a really cool 2" diameter hole in the top cap and pretty colors in the water.
  3. Oh and Rick, I've been putting a steel/brass split ring keeper in place of the all brass one for 30 years on the higher horsepower engines,
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  1. Agreed, and I've not had trouble doing so. Most all Stbd sides are running this way.
  2. I've repaired a few over the years.... yes, very ugly!
  3. Agreed, although I have been working on the Volvos for only twenty years!
 
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