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Carb help.

IUOE

New member
Let me start by saying I'm very new at tinkering with outboards, so bear with me, but I'm committed to learning how to repair these myself rather than trying to find someone who will.
I've acquired a 1987 Mariner 9.9 that needs some carb/fuel pump work (i think) and I need help Identifying which carb I have.

I'm suspicious of the carb/fuel pump for 2 reasons so here's a little background.

First, the motor will generally idle fine for about a 5-10 minute stretch but will quickly die if you advance the throttle for more than 10-15 seconds. I can keep it running by rapidly pressing the little primer button that's on the right side of the carb or by manually spraying fuel into the throat.

Second, this motor ran just fine last fall when i bought it although I only ran it in my test barrel before I stored it away on the garage floor for the winter. I ran it for at least 30 minutes at varying RPM's with absolutely zero issues.

My goal:
I'd like to rebuild the fuel pump, carb and primer button thing all at the same time but I don't know how to properly identify these parts in order to obtain the correct rebuild kits.

Can anyone shine any light on this for me?


1987 Mariner 9.9
Serial # 0B192367
 
Do you have a service manual ? if not get one......... I think it needs a good carb cleaning, sounds like it's having trouble transitioning from slow speed circuit to main.......
 
I have purchased a manual for it that I'll use to walk me through the rebuilding steps and I have finally located the carb model number stamped in the side WMC 17A. Now for the hard part of finding the proper rebuild kit. I'm a little confused because they offer two choices on some items like the main fuel jet (.056 and .052) both listed for the 9.9 so how do I know which one to get? Or better yet, Is there a total rebuild kit i can get that will have all the parts I need in the correct size?
 
My book says .056 for sea level and .052 for above 5000 ft elevation you could also get the .054 for 2500 to 5000. You probably have the .056 in the carb now? when adjusting the float level just use the weight of the float to check it pull the float and bend it never use finger pressure on the float needle.

I have no idea what's in it now. I don't want to take it off until i have a rebuild kit for fear that I'll forget how it came apart (silly I know). But with the info you just gave me I would imagine that it has a .056 because its been a local motor and we're at 500' above sea level.
 
Finally got it running. After spending nearly $100 buying everything i though might have a hand in the malfunction and finally rebuilding/cleaning the darn thing I was no better off than I was in the beginning. In fact it wouldn't run at all unless I disconnected the fuel line from the carb inlet and purged the bowl with air then it would run for a few seconds or until i reconnected the fuel supply line. At that point I was ready to give up but instead I sat here re-reading the posts trying to figure out if I'd missed anything suggested...and there it was. I turned the idle screw out 1 full turn and she kept running! I settled on one and a quarter turns out. I swear the more I struggle with something the more it always turns out to be something simple I overlooked. Thanks guys for all the suggestions, I learned a lot from this project.
 
You should have tried that first of all (as I recommended). Would have saved you a bunch of trouble and $$.

Note: The manual's recommended setting is merely a STARTING point. Each carb needs to be adjusted with the motor running to get the optimum setting--no two are alike. Therefore, your setting now may still be off bit.

Jeff
 
You should have tried that first of all (as I recommended). Would have saved you a bunch of trouble and $$.

Note: The manual's recommended setting is merely a STARTING point. Each carb needs to be adjusted with the motor running to get the optimum setting--no two are alike. Therefore, your setting now may still be off bit.

Jeff

So now how do I know it's set correctly? Is it something I can check with a tach or is it just done by ear?
 
By ear.

Tie the boat to a dock (or on a trailer) so you don't get tricked. Then SLOWLY dial in the smoothest idle you can get, going from carb to carb. Let each adjustment be minor and let it settle in for a few seconds.
And when it's the best you can get, add 1/4 turn OUT (CCW) on each idle screw.

Jeff
 
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