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Bfj8 shift rod won't undo

aussiebushman

New member
In another thread, I'm requesting advice on the replacement of a broken swivel case. The whole unit is now virtually uncoupled and moved freely BUT one issue is preventing the removal of the case, namely that PART A AND PART B of the shift rod just will not come apart.

Reverse has been engaged
The coupling has been doused in Rostof (like WD40)
The lock nut has been wound back to its extremity
The lower unit bolts have been removed and slid down as far as it will go but the (still connected) shift rod prevents it coming right off
The sleeve nut has been turned (have tried both directions) until it will go no further but this is not enough to decouple. Trying to turn further will probably bend/break the rod.
I have used lock pliers and a hammer to gain more movement without success

Any suggestions because the only option seems to be to cut the rod, unscrew the stub from the sleeve nut then hope to clean up the thread to allow replacement
 

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First off it doesn't look like the trans is all the way in reverse. Did you rotate the prop as you pushed down on the shaft? If you just "stuffed it" then it may not have shifted all the way. You can damage a trans by dry shifting it WITHOUT turning the prop so don't try and force it.

When the trans is in reverse, you should be able to see the upper rod sticking out from behind that clamp mount. With the Jam nut backed off all the way....as you have it there....the connector nut should thread down to it and let go of the upper rod.

If the Rostof is, INDEED, just like WD40....that is NOT a strong enough solvent for defeating rust. You need something with some OOMPH like....AERO KROIL or.....what we buy in the auto parts stores here in the States....PB BLASTER.

BUT...if you can buy WD 40 products in Australia then you may want to try their NEW product called RELEASE. It is supposed to be pretty good but I have not tried it yet.

If none of that is available to you...I have read that a poor man's rust buster is a small amount of automatic tranny fluid mixed with a good dose of white vinegar.

No matter though....you've got the hard part done....you got the JAM NUT backed off. Now...use the best stuff you can get and then turn that nut back down toward the jam nut. Then back up to where it is in the pic. Then back down to the jam nut. Then back up, back down, back up back down and I think you see where I'm going. If you keep working that nut enough and keep lube on it...it should heat up from friction and you should slowly be able to gain a little ground on it at a time until it finally lets go of the upper rod.

Good luck.
 
Thanks JGMO You have given excellent advice that will be of great use in the future - especially the trick with vinegar and trans fluid. Rostoff is a WURTH product, not as good in my opinion as a now deleted Molybdenum one but it works

I forgot I had added this additional thread and posted the result on the original one namely:

GOT IT!

The sleeve nut had got itself "welded" to the upper shaft with corrosion or whatever. A combination of soaking overnight in "Rostoff" plus heat today from a gas torch did the job. After some creaking and groaning, managed to get the additional half turn it needed to separate the two sections.

I also managed to loosen the two top bolts enough to generate the movement needed to slide the tube off. Of course, the lower unit now comes off too so I can get at the water pump

What a swine of a job but at least now I can order the parts and put it all back together (that will be the next challenge)

Thanks to all who contributed
 
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