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Bf5A won't consistent go in gear

M

Mrwawa

New member
Hi all,

I have a 2002 BF5A. Last night, when I started the motor and tried to engage in forward, the gear stayed in neutral. It took several attempts to engage. I have only owned the motor for a few months and it has always engaged, but with a heavy "clunk" that shakes the engine. On the way back into the marina, the same thing happened when I started the motor.

I have looked at the parts manual, but not sure where to start in terms of diagnostics. Any help would be appreciated. Needless to say, I am new to working on engines.
 
First, I have to say I haven't worked on this one so, hopefully hondadude will step in at some point with the "gospel".
However he is probably UBER busy so I thought I would give you a go and see if we can't get you going in the meantime.

In the parts link below, items 3 and 4 make up a sort of clamp that holds the upper shift rod to the lower shift rod. The two pieces are screwed together with a bolt that is held in place with a locking washer (items 25 & 31). It is possible that the bolt has loosened and the two shift shafts are no longer being held in the proper relation to each other.

You should be able to access that bolt and the clamp by looking at the front of the extension case just below the bottom of the lower swivel bracket.

In the parts link near the items I've already indicated is a sort of "box" labeled "1" containing several parts labeled 29, 30, 34, 7, 2, 6, and 35. Those are all parts that are internal to the gear box. All the parts above are external and "somewhat" accessible.

Anyway, take a look at that area and see if you can determine if the bolt and clamps are in place and tight. Then get back with your findings. It may be something simple like that but if that's not it....there are some items up in the power head that may need to be looked at BEFORE assuming anything is wrong with the transmission.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H.../BF5A2 LA/EXTENSION CASE GEAR CASE/parts.html
 
Hi all,

I finally got down to the boat last night. The engine now goes into gear, so not sure what was going on. I checked the clamp in the inspection port and it was tight.

Thanks for all the help. I'm sure I'll be back!
 
The co-owner of my boat tried to get it in gear last night and it wouldn't go in either forward or reverse. He checked the inspection port and said the upper and lower shift rods are moving up and down when shifting. Any other suggestuons? Or does it sound like I need to get into the gear case?
 
Well...it doesn't sound promising...BUT....

Before "going in", I would disconnect the the lower shift rod from the upper and see if shifting it directly, using JUST the lower rod, will make it engage. What you do is apply either upward pressure (for forward gear) or downward pressure (reverse) while slowly rotating the prop. If all is right inside the gear case, it should slide fairly easily into gear using this method. If it doesn't then you WILL need to go in and take a look.

While doing this little "exercise" make a mark or two with a felt tip pen on the lower shaft so that you can accurately measure the amount of travel it goes through when shifting from one and then the other gear.

After you have your measurements, move the shift lever on the outboard just as if you were still hooked up and compare the amount of travel the UPPER rod goes through. If the upper rod's movement is shorter than the lower rod....there may be a problem up top. If the travel of both rods is fairly equal in distance then my prediction is that your clutch dogs are worn and the gearcase is "bound up". If the clutch dogs are worn, the hand selection of gears is possible because you are rotating the prop by hand. The fact that the transmission will go into gear like this is a GOOD thing even though you will need to go in and replace the clutch. It is not at all hard to do. But may be above some folks "pay grade".

The clutch dogs get worn naturally...over time....with regular use. It is the case with ALL clutches that wear takes place. We just have to deal with it. ;~(

BUT...and it is a BIG BUT....the clutch can be PREMATURELY worn out by "soft shifting". An outboard should be placed into gear with a crisp...BANG sort of movement of the shift lever. If an operator S.L.O.W.L.Y. pushes or pulls the lever... ...in a soft, lackadaisical way.... and a sort of chattering or ratcheting sound can be heard from the transmission.....THAT is the sound of the clutch dog faces bouncing off of each other. It is also the sound of early clutch failure. So...if you...or your partner... have been "soft shifting"....time to do it the hard way.

But you'll need to replace the clutch first.

But Hey! It's a 2002 and it could just be what happens after 12+years. Below is the parts diagram. The clutch consists of both bevel gears...Items #5 and 6...along with item #1.

You CANNOT just replace item #1 and have it work correctly. The clutch consists of ALL the "squared" off pieces of #1 and those that are part of the gears. I have also tried to file the ledges of the "dogs" square again after they have been rounded off from "bouncing. I'm here to tell you it doesn't work. What filing them square does is change the dimensions and keeps them from "clicking" together.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...BF5A2 LA/PROPELLER SHAFT PROPELLER/parts.html

If you're lucky....you may find the pin that holds the spring sheared or the spring itself is broken....if the clutch dogs or "ears" aren't too badly rounded off....then replace the pin...spring...or both and you're back in business cheap. But if it IS the clutch....$170 + shipping ain't too bad to get your little sweetie back.

Good luck.
 
You have probably already checked this, but is it possible that the shear pin in front of the prop broke? I have seen them break and catch and work sometime.

Part #12 is actually just in front of the prop. Pull the cotter pin and unscrew the prop nut/cone and pull the prop off. The shear pin goes through the prop shaft and lays in a groove in the front of the prop. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...BF5A2 LA/PROPELLER SHAFT PROPELLER/parts.html

You have to take off the prop anyway, if you are going to pull the prop shaft holder.

Who knows...you might get lucky.

Mike
 
Don't know about the small Honda's, but the old Evinrude 9.9's were notorious for broken shear pins that would wobble out just enough to catch and act right until they wobbled back in place and leave you stranded in the middle of the water. I speak from too many experiences on that one. I quickly learned to always keep a pack of shear pins in my tackle box.
 
SEE? I always miss the easy stuff!
Of COURSE it could be a "chicken bone" shear pin! The jagged edges catch and release just like a pro bass fisherman!

Glad you guys are watching!
 
Jimmy....Mrwawa did not confirm our thoughts yet.

I didn't think about the shear pin until you got into the nitty gritty.

Most 5 HP has a couple of spare pins either under the front side of the motor or in the front just inside under the hood....unless they have already been used.

Mike
 
Yes...of course...just like ALL of the old 7.5 and 10 horse Hondas of the 70's and 80's! There was always a little "holder" for extra shear pins and cotter pins too. I just plain didn't think. Thanks for the kind words though.
 
Hi all,

It was a shear pin! I feel a little silly that I didn't check it before, but the intermittent nature of the prop working threw me off. Thanks so much for your time and expertise. I have learned a lot in this process.

Happy boating.
 
Good news! Don't feel bad....I missed it too! But as soon as I saw hondadude's and chawk_man's posts....I figured you might just find that to be the case.
Now....go out and buy some more spares! ;~)
 
Well....maybe they will use my gear selection method. That is something that could be used from my "diatribe".
Thanks Mike.
 
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