Hi,
I have a (new to me) 2010 BF 30 that runs on and on and onwhen switched off at either the key or pulling the killcord.
When it's ice cold- for example when started and run for lessthan a minute it runs on for only 20 seconds or so before finally stopping- but this time varies. Whenfully warmed up and out on the water it sometimes runs on for 3 or 4 minutesand on one occasion would not stop until I lifted the cowl and pulled all the leads. I'm concernedthat it is unsafe as the boat could go a very long way in that time if I fellout.
The control box wiring appears to be in good condition. Theengine wiring less so, as the engine gets a lot of saltwater spray. Also thewiring loom from the control box to the engine is all covered up in trunking soI have no idea what that’s like inside. From the condition of the connectionsand bolts, plenty of water has found its way under the cowl over the years. Theboat throws up a lot of water into the front of the cowl as its coming onto theplane (another thing I’m going to fix) My guess is that rust or moisture ismaking a connection where it shouldn’t, so stray current is still getting tothe ignition long after it is switched off. The motor’s not getting hot, anddoes the same thing from ice cold anyway so I think its electrical problem notoverheating engine run-on.
Any ideas on what to look at first to fix this?
I’m thinking that the switch off circuit is probably afairly simple one. If necessary I could run another set of wires from the ignitionswitch and killcord part of the control box, just to see if that cures theproblem. Anyone know which wire I need to break under the cowl which shoulddefinitely kill the spark and stop the motor? This would be a good startingpoint and would be handy to know anyway as last time to stop it I had to pulloff all 3 HT leads one after the other (with wet hands and no pliers- which wasno fun). It was still just about running on only one cylinder.
Many thanks for any ideas on this!
I have a (new to me) 2010 BF 30 that runs on and on and onwhen switched off at either the key or pulling the killcord.
When it's ice cold- for example when started and run for lessthan a minute it runs on for only 20 seconds or so before finally stopping- but this time varies. Whenfully warmed up and out on the water it sometimes runs on for 3 or 4 minutesand on one occasion would not stop until I lifted the cowl and pulled all the leads. I'm concernedthat it is unsafe as the boat could go a very long way in that time if I fellout.
The control box wiring appears to be in good condition. Theengine wiring less so, as the engine gets a lot of saltwater spray. Also thewiring loom from the control box to the engine is all covered up in trunking soI have no idea what that’s like inside. From the condition of the connectionsand bolts, plenty of water has found its way under the cowl over the years. Theboat throws up a lot of water into the front of the cowl as its coming onto theplane (another thing I’m going to fix) My guess is that rust or moisture ismaking a connection where it shouldn’t, so stray current is still getting tothe ignition long after it is switched off. The motor’s not getting hot, anddoes the same thing from ice cold anyway so I think its electrical problem notoverheating engine run-on.
Any ideas on what to look at first to fix this?
I’m thinking that the switch off circuit is probably afairly simple one. If necessary I could run another set of wires from the ignitionswitch and killcord part of the control box, just to see if that cures theproblem. Anyone know which wire I need to break under the cowl which shoulddefinitely kill the spark and stop the motor? This would be a good startingpoint and would be handy to know anyway as last time to stop it I had to pulloff all 3 HT leads one after the other (with wet hands and no pliers- which wasno fun). It was still just about running on only one cylinder.
Many thanks for any ideas on this!