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BF20d overheating

crholliday

New member
I have a 2018-ish BF20d with power tilt and remote that is throwing an overheating buzzer and red light on the throttle controls after I throttle up for a few minutes. The alarm has not come on at lower speeds for 20+ minutes. If the alarm sounds, it drops the RPMs down. If I shut off the engine and wait a few seconds and start back up it will run fine in low speeds but anytime I try to get up on plane (11' highfield rib), the alarm activates. The cooling indicator (tell tale) is behaving normally. I have recently changed the carburetor and only adjusted the idle speed (throttle linkage) but did not touch the mixture screw. I am currently in the Bahamas and have very limited access to parts. Looking for help to get this diagnosed and get a part order in to the Honda dealer in Nassau.
 
Hi,
Frustrating, I know.

But, it sounds like the engine protection system is working as it should. It senses overheat and de-powers the engine to protect it then re-sets when the ignition is cycled off.

When at idle and low speed, you burn less fuel so there is less heat generated. When you power up you "make a bigger fire", so to speak, and the heat quotient goes up dramatically.

But....what's wrong?

Since you say the pee stream is ok it looks like the pump is good. Right?...
....BUT...I've seen pumps with only one impeller vane still intact make a decent looking pee stream so I wouldn't discount the pump as being "weak" and not supplying enough water to keep that bigger fire under control.

If it were me, and considering where you are....

....I would pull the thermostat and have a look in there. I would also test the stat in a pot of water on a stove to see what temperature it opens at. I actually test NEW tstats like that because I have found many to be bad right out of the box.

If there is a fairly high degree of mineral/salt/corrosion build up inside the housing, then you'll probably want to do some cleaning in there.
And, more than likely, you would be well served to pull the water jacket cover and clean in there as well. Items 8 and 9 in the link below.


I recommend replacing the zinc anode and attachment screw
(items 1 and 12) as preventive maintenance if you go in there.
That screw can sieze and snap off in there so remove with care.

If funds allow, I would actually replace the tstat and gasket as well as the water pump even if all looks ok. In your situation it's always good to keep the used stuff as spares if they seem serviceable. The gaskets and/or seals don't cost much so buying extras to support that strategy would be a good idea too. Your choice.

If you go with replacing the pump instead of just inspecting it, I recommend a COMPLETE NEW KIT (item 2 in the link below) as opposed to just a new impeller and gaskets (item 1).

While a complete kit costs more, it ensures that the new impeller, wiper cup and housing all fit and function as one and will give you 100% efficiency of moving water for cooling.


A new impeller installed into a used wiper cup will rapidly wear down to conform to the old cup. This decreases pumping efficiency.

Also, always use the new drive key with the new impeller because, even if the old key looks ok, it IS definitely worn to some degree. Very close examination of it will bear that out.

It does seem to me that the engine is likely overheating so you should avoid using it until you get it sorted out. Because, even if the protection system is working well, you can still do small amounts of damage each time she gets too hot.

I hope you get it fixed up without too much trouble.

Good luck.
 
Thank you so much for the detailed response! I pulled the thermostat and tested. It starts opening around 150 degrees and is fully open at around 165. Does that seem normal? Unfortunately, I sheared off one of the two bolts while removing the thermostat cover so I will have to deal with that but I will also backflush with the thermostat out and see what comes out.
 
I removed the water jacket cover and cleaned all the salt and flushed as much as possible. Drilled out the broken bolt and found a replacement onboard. Put everything back together and she is running without overheating. As soon as the new tstat, and other parts arrive, I will replace.
 
Well,

The specifications are:

Starts to open at 144°f

Fully open at 158°f

And

Should fully open at least 3.0 mm (0.120 in.)

That fully open measurement is pretty important and I forgot to include that fact before.

Another thing I forgot was to have you check your pump intake screens. If you operate in shallows with grass or debris you should do that often anyway.


A bummer about the bolt but the jacket cover is less than $60 should you need one and is available.

It's been posted here many times that running in a trashcan of water with a heavy dose of vinegar in it is effective at loosening deposits. That's something that you might want to try. Although, I agree with fresh water flushing immediately after each use for prevention of salt buildup.
I'm positive others here are watching and may chime in with suggestions.
Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Ha!
You type faster than me and, it seems, WORK even faster!
Good going!
And
Good news!
Thanks for updating.

Please sum up with your outcome after the new parts have been fitted.
 
A quick update on this: after my initial cleaning and de-salting, the engine ran fine for a couple of runs but eventually, I got the overheating buzzer and light again. As I am still waiting for a new tstat, water pump and flush adapter, I crafted a flush adapter from stuff I have on the boat and flushed through the flush port for a while. I definitely noticed increased flow through some of the holes that dribble water during that time. Since, that flushing, about 10 days ago, I have run the boat a dozen times with no overheating. My guess is that it had something clogging some nook or crannie and the flushing finally dislodged it.
 
Ok, more positive results.
Did you use anything as a descaler? Like vinegar for instance?

I have never tried it but I've often thought about pulling out the temperature sensor and adapting a flush fitting for that passage. Just sayin'.

Good luck.
 
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