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BF130 Water pump installation

G

gtboosted

New member
Hi,

Can anyone please tell me the steps on how to swap the water pump on a 2000 BF130? I got the kit with the gaskets and impeller.

What supplies do I need?

Also, someone told me on the Honda outboards FB group to secure the shift rod with vise grips otherwise I would need to remove the powerhead to put it back in?

Is it that bad? If so how do I ensure this doesn't happen?

Thanks a bunch!
 
Hi,
1)Remove the 4 nuts + 1 on the leg (the 5th one is on the underside).
2 Nuts either side one underneath.
2) Slowly move the gearbox until it separates and pull it off.
3)Remove the 4 bolts that hold the impeller assembly.
4)Pull the plastic housing off.
5)Remove the impeller by pulling it up the shaft and away.
Note:there is a key that fits on the inside of the impeller and sits between the inside of the impeller and the drive shaft.
6)Slide down the new impeller with the key until properly seated.
7)Slide down the impeller housing until it sits on the impeller.
8) Rotate the driveshaft CLOCKWISE with your right hand while pushing down on the housing with your left hand.
The impeller should curl and fit into the housing.
9)Replace and tighten the 4 bolts and don’t forget the 4 stainless spacers or “tubes” that go into the housing.
Visually inspect for corrosion , salt buildup, rust or dirt in general.
10) The shift shaft rod has splines;clean and apply grease on splines and on the seal through which it comes out from.
11)Inspect and clean the whole drive shaft and splines.
12)Apply grease to the drive shaft splines and the shiny area which fits in the bushing.
13)Insert the whole assembly with the shaft back in .
In case it won’t fit or align, slightly wiggle the gearbox up and down to get the splines to align.
14)Once in place put back the 5 bolts and torque until they sit firm.
There is nothing to go wrong with shift shaft.
You need socket wrenches and some grease.
You can find exploded schematics of the Assemblies online.
Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Heligeorge I REALLY appreciate your response! The parts are arriving today and with your steps I will get it done.

Thanks a bunch!
 
IIRC, I left mine in forward gear before removal, then on reinstalling, being able to rotate the prop a bit aided in aligning the shaft splines.
 
Just be careful that the shift shaft splines line up & you don't use excessive force when refitting the lower unit, or you can dislodge the circlip #32. If that happens shaft #5 and shaft #9 can disengage and become out of sync and that's not good, but fixable. You can easily check that the circlip#32 is located in it's groove after you have fitted the lower unit, access is above the swivel plate.
https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...-vin-bzbe-1100001-to-bzbe-1199999/shift-shaft

Bob
 
As long as you don’t rotate the shift shaft on the gearbox side and as long as you don’t shift the engine in and out of gear on the control side, the splines will align and there will be no difficulties putting everything back together.
As for the driveshaft alignment,the worst that can happen is the spline alignment will be such that the lower unit won’t fit; in that case remove the lower unit an slightly turn the shaft where at some stage it will align.
I had a BF130 (1999) and I did all the servicing my self.
If you plan on keeping the engine it would be good to look at the following items:
A) 2 zinc anodes on the exhaust side in the exhaust manifold (replace) and if you manage to remove the cover and bolts without breaking any bolts because they corrode badly (in which case you might need new threads and helicoils.
B)If you decide to make other major checks you could look into replacing the 2 anodes on the intake side (the intake manifold has to come out); I did mine, the lower anode was completely caked up with salt.I cleaned it all out , replaced the anodes and cleaned / put everything back.
I found and downloaded for free the SHOP MANUAL for the engine so I knew what to do.
My BF130 was 1999.I got it 3rd hand with about 450 hrs.I had put on about 400 hours and sold the boat trailer and engine in February 2022.
I have a new boat and a BF250Dist with about 66 hours.
I went with Honda because the design and working principle of the new engine is the same as the 130;Unfortunately they are heavy engines ��…
I used antiseize on many of the bolts.
Bolts tend to rust and seize on Hondas.
I always flush the engine for minimum 10 minutes either with muffs of with the flush hose.
Every 6outings or so I will use salt away as precautionary measure.
On the 130 I did a vinegar flush for 48 hours and removed allot of build up.
Maybe that is why the engine still runs.
 
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