OK, I forgot about the portable tank.
BTW: here is the link to a diagram of the HP fuel pump holder that has the screen in the bottom - part 29.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H.../BF225AK0 XA/VAPOR SEPARATOR ASSY./parts.html
Let's back up...
In your initial post you said: "I added fuel half day later it wouldn't plane out." How sure are you of the quality of that fuel? Is that the same fuel you used in the portable tank?
You also said: "Found lp filter plugged:" How did you determine that is was clogged? Was there sediment in the bottom of the bowl? Any water? If that filter was clogged, I would suspect that the on-board fuel/water separator would also be clogged. Did you check that?
You also said: "found air bubbles about ever 5 seconds." Where exactly did you place that clear in-line filter so that you could see the air bubbles? I would recommend getting a piece of clear plastic hose with the same inside diameter as your current fuel lines on the engine and use it to replace the line between the low pressure fuel filter and the low pressure fuel pump. Look for air bubbles under various engine speeds. Recognize that the air bubbles may not show up until the engines is at rather high rpm's. If you see the air bubbles, then start backing up, replacing the fuel lines one-by-one until you do not see the bubbles. That air leak could come from anywhere, including the seal on the LP fuel filter, the seal on the on-board fuel/water separator, the coupler where the fuel line plugs into the engine, the connecting hose on the external fuel/water separator, or the seal on the external fuel/water separator, or the connection where the fuel line connects to the fuel tank pick-up. A real off-the-wall possibility is a hole in the pick-up tube itself.
Have you tried to pull fault codes off of the ECU? If you have a problem with the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor or the IAC (Idle Air Control) sensor, that would tell you. It's a fault code "10" or code "14."
To answer your other questions...
Yes, there are vacuum lines. I'll try to find the diagram. But the most obvious one, and the one easiest to get to is the vacuum line that attaches to the Inake Air Bypass (IAB) control, That's the large disk-like diaphragm that sets above the VST. The vacuum line plugs into the middle of that. I have no idea what the specs are for proper vacuum. However, if the vacuum was too low, I suspect it would throw and alarm and a fault code.
The low pressure pump will shoot out fuel every time the cam turns. You can actually unbolt it and work the cam arm manually to test it. You can test fuel pressure at the cover at the top of the HP fuel filter. There will be a pressure relief bolt there that will accept a fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pressure should be between 42 to 48 psi at idle, in gear with prop removed.