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BF 130, 2000yr

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stan101

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Recently water comes out the exaust port opening when engine is running on muffs. This is a new development which seems like it has got to be bad news, but the engine runs great. Does anyone know what is going on and what should be done about it. See photo attached. Stan
 

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It hard to tell for sure...but it looks like there may be water coming from above the exhaust relief holes...as well as out of them.

If the water is coming out the holes, it should be ok. If it is coming out from inside the case, then pop off the plastic cover just above the exhaust relief. Behind it is the flush port. If the water is coming out of the flush port, you probably just have some corrosion build up in your flush port relief valve. If so...just follow the hose up to the port top side of the motor. The hose goes to the relief port. Two bolts hold the cap and a spacer in place. Pull it apart clean off the gasket and the plastic valve and it should be ok. If it does not clean up, just replace what you need and reinstall.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike,
The relief valve is completely salted shut and that is probably the problem. Tomorrow I'll get new o rings and a gasket and see how it is then. As usual, you are right on and I appreciate your advice, hope you will never leave the forum! I'm disappointed with the salt removal product I've been using for years as it doesn't seem to do much good even though it was used without fail after every salt water immersion.Stan
Relief Valve 2-13-2011 11-58-56 AM 882x714.jpg
 
Mike,

Yes, that was the problem. Installed the parts today and now there is absolutely no water around the exaust port. Thanks again for your help.
Stan
 
From this thread I can say with certainty that a salted up flush relief valve will cause water to exit the exaust port when running the engine on muffs: that's a symptom worth knowing. How about symptoms when the relief valve under the water jacket cover is salted up? It is a matter of when it will close up due to salt/water deposits, not if, so I'm wondering what kind of damage is done when it no longer operates? The Shop Manual doesn't address this as a maintenance item, but there is need to "get her done", i.e. cleaned before a problem arises, expecially if you're offshore a lot like me.

Another question concerns engine flushing. The method of using a hose to flush with the engine not running seems inadequate to me as some of the engine parts on the other side of the thermostat are not getting flushed. Is that right? My buddy said on his Yamaha's the water pressure opens the thermostat and the whole engine is flushed - the same as having muffs on it. Maybe, but I'm hard to convince. Anybody care to chime in on this? Stan
 
Yeah, I'm not convinced of that "opens the thermostat" to get to the other side stuff either.

The problem with water, salt or fresh, is that you can't thoroughly prevent scale buildup no matter how well you flush. The minerals in the water, and there can be almost as many in fresh water as in salt, tend to "plate out" on to the engine components when the engine is at it's hottest. This causes a "bond" to the surfaces of the engine cooling system that is almost impossible to break down without using mechanical action like scraping or wire brushing.

I learned a long time ago in tech school that a 1/32" layer of scale deposit on an engine cylinder head has the equivalent resistance to heat transfer from the metal to the coolant of approximately 1 1/4" of solid steel. Pretty impressive insulating factor for a thin sheet of water deposit!

And, even in a closed cooling system, using fresh, distilled water treated with a veritable "witches brew" of chemicals designed to lubricate, inhibit scale and prevent corrosion, scale deposits still occur due to the heat.

So I'm with you, some things just need to be taken out from time to time and cleaned or replaced.
Giterdone!
 
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