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Aq140/280

macdaver

New member
Well back working on my Bayliner. I have yet been able to remove the drive shaft. Have helmet pushed up , the belows is off. The u-joints are a pile of rust, the trans is unbolted. There has to be something I'm missing. My last attempt I built a slide hammer using chain , 3/8 all thread a 2x6 galv. nipple and caps drilled, Oh and a sledgehammer.
Failed again.
I'm really wanting to get the engine on my stand are start rebuilding,nice winter project. Please help, my grandaughter has named the Bayliner " POOPYBOAT" She wants to play on it in the water not in the yard. Thanks, Dave
 
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I'm in the same spot. The u-joint and transmission removed and now I'd very much like to remove the driveshaft. I have removed the smaller retaining ring (74), but as I grip the spline of the shaft with a large vise grip, the best I can accomplish is to shake the shaft (70) in what I know to be a worn bearing. My u-joint was very rusty and I can conclude that the bearing is rusty as well. I really want to do a bearing and seal replacement from the transom side without removing the engine. Someone tell me that this is doable. Thanks.
http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7742840-44-15806.aspx
 
Dave, I'll take a stab here that you have a rusted transmission drive shaft female yoke that is stuck onto the PDS (primary drive shaft)
I'll also take a stab that the PDS at the FWD end is rusted into the splines of the drive coupler, if you cannot seperate the engine from the Flywheel Cover.

There is a solution for both, but it aint an easy one. I've helped several people over the years with this same thing.

Often a part of the "universal" drive shaft must be sacrificed in order to get the transmission out of your way.
This may involve cutting it off FWD of, or Behind, one of the bearing crosses.
Once out of your way, you can rig up a chain slide hammer and go to work on pulling this off of the PDS.

As for the front section (the PDS in the drive coupler), there is a way to bore a hole into the F/C for access to the junction where these two join.
If the PDS is rusted tightly onto the coupler, this access may allow you to drive on it, to help break this rust up.
One person bored his hole in a location that allowed him to loosen each of the "drive coupler" bolts that secure it to the flywheel.
Once loose, the engine seperated from the F/C...... and the engine was free to come out.
This left the drive couple attached to the PDS, and within the F/C......... and I can tell you, this gives us much better access to remove it.

Andy of these parts that may become damaged are avialable from a salvage yard that I am very close to. None of which will break the bank, should you need to replace them. There are lots of these older parts available in areas where Volvo Penta is big! And I'm in one of those areas here in Oregon.

Assuming that you are removing the transmission ONLY at this time........ what ever you do, DO NOT attempt to remove the four transmission clamping collar bolts until you get the transmission off and on the bench.
More on that later if that's the case.

.
 
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Hey Rick, I like that idea of a hole to get access to the "drive coupler" bolts! You turn the crankshaft, until you have all of the bolts out. If things are rusted up bad inside, this would allow access, so you would not have to distroy everything to get the unit apart.
Art
 
This is a marathon project!!! Here's where I'm at. Bored a 1 /1/4 hole in FC sprayed the spline still won't break free. So much for the drive coupler. Found 1/2 bolts on the outer edge of FW, assume these will release FW from DC. Pulled plugs rotated crank, two off. I see the light. Crap another problem. Engine won't rotate all the way. Pulled OP checked for broken rod, none that I can tell, but hard to get a good look.
Tonight I'm bringing home from work Ridgid "SeeSnake" (hand held flexable video camera to get a better look.But if not a rod stopping the rotation of the crank then????
 
Thanks to all ! Sunday morning I got wise. Went to Home Depot purchased a hand grinder and 3 4 1/2" discs. Cut the shoulders off the u-joint and BAM!! engine is out. Still fighting the frozen shafts.but it in my garage now
Dave
 
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