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AQ131A Converting to Electronic Ignition...

maine1963

maine1963

Member
:confused::confused::confused:

Have seen some posts about guys converting the old points/condenser system to a new Electronic Ignition System on the Volvo AQ131A - which I have. Here is the link that I found, but not sure if it is the right one. I emailed the company, but I am still waiting to hear back... http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=2842/591.0.1.1#longdesc2842

I didn't see any specific posts about specific part numbers from PerTronix.com and how to go about it in the cheapest way.

From what I have studied - it is a QUICK conversion and you DO NOT have to replace the Distributor.

Some guys have also replaced the Ignition Coil with a Pertronix Flame Thrower Coil. How do I know which coil to go with?? Here is the link :http://www.shopatron.com/products/category/591.0.1.1.26484.0.0.0.0
 
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I think that the Pertronix Ignition part # is 2842

BUT, There are SOOOO many choices with coils. Perhaps just some direction as the Correct one for a AQ131A set up with the above Igniton System??

Thanks all.
Greg
 
Greg is correct, the kit you need is the 2842.

Yes, it is a quick conversion and you don't have to replace the distributor. Here is a link to the instructions so that you have an idea how simple is the conversion.

http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/pdf/ignitor12vneg.pdf

The Flame Thrower coil is fine, but your current coil should also work if it has an internal resistor (3 ohm primary resistance). But if you want to go for a Flame Thrower, your best choice is probably the 40611, which is a 40,000V, 3 ohm, epoxy filled coil. Check the catalog.

http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/pdf/ptx/2010/ptx2010_coils.pdf
 
Forgot to post back so others can see final outcome.

Both the Flame Thrower Coil and the Pertronixs Convertion kit worked great. Noticed fast pick up and better gas mileage!!

As always - you are the Man E.P. ... Invaluable to all here!

Greg
 
E,P and the rest of you here can you help me????

Well here is a problem for you guys..
I just bought a boat Draco 1700 with a AQ131a and VP 280 gear.
The engine goes warm, I replaced soon eveything.
rubberhoose seawater in new, impeller seawater new, checked the heatchanger was ok, new exhaustcooler, new termostate, new engine circulationpump.
Someone wrote on a Swedish site that it can go warm if the ignithen is to high.
Read the tread about the ignitor might try that....

Sorry for my pour english
Thomas of Sweden

And Greg on my engine, I have a metal wrap around the copperpipe fixed with a M8 boalt to the engine block pushing it up in the cooler if it´s any help too you.
 
Thomas, did you check the raw water hose connector in the outdrive intermediate gear? That is where the water hose is connected. Make sure the connector is in good condition (i.e. not corroded or perforated) and that the beaded rubber gasket is good, for both of them are known sources of air ingress.

I am talking about parts 28 and 29 on this link:

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscat...,1919,1934,1935,1920,1936,1921,1937,1938,1940

PS. Your English is much better than my Swedish. :D
 
Thank you for answering my questions, that connector and rubber gasket is new, just didn´t know what to call it, still goes so warm that it cookes (100 degreas celsius) I tried to run whithout termostate no differens. The last thing I did was to change the gap on the points to 0,40 it was tighter before. Result it turned hotter even faster.
But I havent checked the timing because the distributor is stuck (corrosion) working on that.

Is it posseble that the timing can cause the engine to go soo hot? Before changing the point gap it started just fine, still does. Runns for over 5000 rpm seams strong brings the boat to about 32 kn. But just for a couple of minnuts then hot.
 
starsnstripes said:
Any ideas on freeing a stuck distributor? I have the same problem on my AQ145A.
Click to expand...

Hello, Thomas of Sweden here, manage to free my distributor, but I had too remowe the heatchanger, the metalarm that holds the generator, then I spreyed the distributor with corrosion lose spray for a couple of days. Then word on it easy with a hammer "easy" after that grab around the bottom of the distributor with a pipegrip tool, don´t know what you call it in english, (Swedish "rörtång") go wery easy back and fourth, spray in between.

Good luck

P.S Change the camchaftbelt and the belt tightner if needed.
 
thomas of sweden said:
hello, thomas of sweden here, manage to free my distributor, but i had too remowe the heatchanger, the metalarm that holds the generator, then i spreyed the distributor with corrosion lose spray for a couple of days. Then work on it easy with a hammer "easy" after that grab around the bottom of the distributor with a pipegrip tool, don´t know what you call it in english, (swedish "rörtång") go wery easy back and fourth, spray in between.

Good luck

p.s change the camchaftbelt and the belt tightner if needed.
Click to expand...

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El_Pescador if you read this or anyone, new question.

I have this problem with engine runs hot...
I changed the point in the distriutor from the 0,40 down to about 0,25 because that I got the feeling that the engine turned even hotter with te bigger 0,40. (the distributor was at the time stuck of corrosin)
I then runned the boat stuck to the dock in deplacement upp to over 3000 rpm it didn´t seem to go so hot while doing this. Then I went for a turntrip i the bay ... camchaftbelt went of Grrrrrrrrrrr.. F problems all the time,, anyway.

Is there any more rubber ceelings in the 280 drive between the water intake upp to the bend with ceeling where the water in hoose is tightend. Where it can draw air into the seawater system at higher speed on top of the water.

Thankfull for answears :)
 
Thomas, the timing has to be waaaaaaay off for the engine to overheat. My guess is that there is not enough water circulating through the heat exchanger, and that could be due to a number of reasons. The most common one is the raw water hose connector and beaded gasket; even if you just replaced them you may want to check they are correctly installed and there is no air ingress through either of them (this will happen mostly when the boat is on the plane). Then, you may want to check that the intake grids in the lower gear assembly are clear and there are no barnacles or other marine growth inside the outdrive water spaces. Then, make sure the hose clamps connecting the suction pipe to the transom shield pipe (part 79 on the following link) are tight

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscat...,1919,1934,1935,1920,1936,1921,1937,1938,1940
 
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