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Aq130c / b20 / 270 help!!!

T

Tonisher

Member
the problem im having is i recently bought a 1972 glastron v164 and im trying to get her river ready. There is a pipe that goes from the the water pump down to the lower part of th e engine the o-ring is leaking. There is also a fuel pipe that go down to the same lower part of the engine it is also leaking bad o-ring. Does anyone know what they are called and where i can find them. My other problem is the engine sounds great but it is overheating. If anyone can point out some common problems that would be great. One more question i did a tune up, oil change, fuel filter, is there anything else i should do before i get her out on the water. The boat has been sitting for 6-7 years.
 
An engine that has been sitting for that long can present some challenges, especially in the area of dried out seals and gaskets. Start out by downloading the basic operating manual here: http://www.volvopenta.com/VOLVOPENTA/NA/EN-US/MARINE_LEISURE_ENGINES/OUT_OF_PRODUCTION_ENGINES/Pages/out_of_production_engines.aspx

That will get you started on identifying components and specific hoses, wires, and fuel lines. It will go a long way toward people being able to help if we know exactly what you're talking about. At least identify which side of the engine the component is located.

As far as overheating: let's start first by asking if you're running it on the trailer and using muffs or in the water. It makes a difference on where to start troubleshooting.

By the way, welcome to the forum. There are several of us here who have managed to revive these older engines and are having a great time with our boats so there is plenty of help here. There are also some fantastic professional Volvo mechanics here with a wealth of information and the desire to help. Just need to learn how to ask the right questions.
 
Thanks Joe I appreciate the welcome. Its weird when I went to the link for the manual it says wrong serial number my engine block had a metal decal stamped AQ130c/270. I work on car a lot so when I first got the boat I notice a fuel leak on the right side. There is a pipe with two Phillip head bolts on the right bottom side. When I removed the two bolts and pulled the pipe out it had a flat o-ring on it and that was the reason it is leaking. I also pulled a plug, plug wire, fuel filter and I notice that there was another pipe that runs from the water pump to the bottom right side of the motor. Whatever at the bottom right side of the engine it has two pipe going to it. One line is for water and one line is for fuel. It had the same o-ring so I took those part to a local marine store and they didn't have them. So now I have replace the plug and wires. I ended up buying a battery and muffs. I put everything back together put I switched the two o-ring so now the fuel is not leaking but it has a water leak. I ran it on the trailer with muff and it started to overheat. I was thinking that o-ring is let air into the system so that why it maybe why it overheating. I still need to replace the impeller, is it under the water pump right? Thanks again for you comments and your advice.
 
Even with a repair manual, it's still a good idea to have the operators manual. Go back to the link I gave you but don't put the serial number in. Just fill out the bottom questions.
The coolong system has several types of rubber seals and some square cut o-rings. You can get complete schematics with part numbers and prices from marinepart***press dot com. You can buy complete seal sets from Sierra as well. NAPA can get Sierra parts for you but be aware that they will charge you shipping to the store. Probably best to order them from here if you're going to use Sierra parts.

After you replace the impeller, you can start checking the cooling system again to find out if it still overheats and why. There are some common parts that fail but let's see what you have before we recommend too many repair parts.

Another thing to consider is the driveshaft bellows. It's a replacement item and 6-7 years is way too long past it's useful life. You'll need to pull the upper gearbox to replace the bellows as well as inspect and lube the u-joints. You'll need the o-rings and seals for that job as well. I don't mean to be spending your money or causing unnecessary work but failure to perform some of the routine maintenance can result in some very expensive damage. I recommend that you pressure test the outdrive prior to removing the gearbox. That's the only way to know if there are seals and gaskets leaking and it's best to do that first so you know what to replace.
 

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Thanks Bob

I found a diagram its an oil cooler and the parts I need are called Sealing Ring (flat o-ring). Thanks for the advice on the impeller. You know I really appreciate all the good people on this site. Thanks again

Tony
 
Those are square cut o-rings. You also have those on the pipes on top of the exhaust manifold but they are slightly different. When you put them in, be sure they fit squarely in the socket or on the pipe. You don't waht those to roll on you. You can add a small bead of permatex red (high temp) RTV to the tops to help seal but don't use too much or it gets looking bad really fast!
 
Thank for the operator's manual & the workshop manual. I felt like i was hitting a wall until i found this site. Thank again for all the advice and resources.

Tony PICTURES 050.jpg
 
Tony, the work shop manual is great, and I say use the OEM, not the Seloc or Clymers.
However, for this to all come together, you may want to see AQ 130C parts schematics.

Be sure that you are looking at the AQ130C, and not one of the others that share this page.
AQ = Aquamatic Drive.... BB = Inboard

When you idendify a component, find properties of the schematic, copy the URL!
The paste the URL between the image tags


Then we can use SEQ #'s.... and eventually p/n's.


Example.... here's your fuel system.... and here's the web page.

5289.jpg


.
 
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Thanks again for all the advice and information. One more quick question the operator's manual said use 10w/30 or 20w/40. My question what is the best weight of oil for the AQ130c and the 270 outdrive?
 
On the advice of someone who used to frequent this forum (EL Pescador) I've been using 15w/40 in my AQ130C and 270 for the past 3 years without any issues and will continue to do so. I've used 10w/30 before as well and it also worked fine. I don't think you can go too wrong with either of those.
 
Tonisher said:
Okay, great that's also what I have heard. Yeah these motor seem pretty bullet prove.
Click to expand...
Think I'd be careful about calling these bullet proof. I'm rebuilding one right now and having a heck of a time finding a cylinder head that isn't cracked, has been overheated, or eaten away from salt water. Be careful about detonation and overheating if you want that engine to last.
 
Overheating has killed so many engine. Mine started overheating I just shut her down. I need to replace two o-rings and the impeller. And hopefully that will fix the issue I'm having. Are these motors pretty hard to find. That sucks that your having a hard time finding a cylinder head thats not messed up. I'll keep my eyes and ears open for you.
 
My boat is a 17' and looks similar in hull shape as yours (if yours is the one in the pic above in your post). I can get my boat up to 33-34 mph at WOT with two adul(t)s in it. I am using a 14x19 LH prop.
 
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