Logo
FULL SITE MENU

AQ125b very difficult to start

S

saintnick

New member
I just purchased my first boat a few months ago. Here is the history, - the boat was stripped of all the interior, motor started but would die out. First thing I did was spend a bunch of money refinishing the inside, not the best place to start. I was able to get it up and running, worked out on the lake for a few hours and I brought it home. The next day it over heated, bushing went bad on water pipe in out drive. I replaced the hoses bellows, all the seals along with the flange not it does not overheat. When it did it boiled over around the heat exchanger cap and soaked everything in antifreeze.

I took it back out everything worked fine ran great for 5 hours. Put it back in the water the next day and it would not start.
This is what I have tried. I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, points, condensor, and put in new spark plugs. My ignition timing is set the points and are gapped with a dwell meter. I was able to get it started after several hours of leaving the throttle wide open, in case it was flooded. My valvle timing is 6 -7 btdc, but it does bounce around a little.

it ran in a tub for about 30 min with cold water flowing in, I thought it was fixed, went this morning and it would not fire up. I took out the plugs they were heavily blackened. the carb has fuel puddeled in the bottom. I pulled the plugs, left the throttle in wide open and after a few hours it started. When I shut the motor off I do not see fuel coming in from the accelator pump.

I am at a loss, sorry for the long post, I read all the other similar ones, and it seems each one could play a small part in mine, last thing once it is started for the next couple hours it will restart will only small hesistation. any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thank You

nick
 
I would start by installing an electronic ignition kit (pertronix 2842, or hotspark). You will save yourself a lot of headaches in the future.

Also, when you have symptoms of flooding, you don't have to wait for a few hours to start the engine. Just put the throttle lever (in neutral) at about 75%, turn the ignition key on to start cranking, then bring the lever back to zero the moment the engine starts firing.
 
Thank You for the reply - That is the only way I am able to get it started, is in neutral at about 75% it takes quite awhile to turn over, I usually end up having to put a charger on the battery. The electronic ignition sounds like a good way to go, I saw in some other posts folks were happy with them.

In the carb, is there a second butterfly valve that should open to suck the gas into the manifold? I am thinking that may explain the puddling of the fuel. I just ordered the rebuild kit for the carb but it will not be in for about a week.

Thank You,

Nick
 
Electronic ignition is one of the best and cheapest upgrades you can make to your engine.

There is only one butterfly. You may want to get hold of a copy of the SELOC repair manual for your engine (SELOC 3600), it contains a detailed explanation on how to overhaul the carb.
 
Ditto on the electronic ignition. I've had good luck now with two of the hot-sparks for half the money of Pertronix.

But before you go that upgrade route, your boat should run good enough. It sounds like you've done all the other tune-up specs so that leaves fuel delivery. I would take the carb down to a good rebuilder and have them go through it. That was the best $200 I ever spent on mine. I went through the carb twice myself and have tried Solexs before that without much luck. I have a love/hate relationship with Solex and a lot more hate than love! I've rebuilt other brand carbs before with decent success but the Solexs have been zero success rate doing it myself.
 
Back
Top