"Ted: pretty straight-forward.
"Ted: pretty straight-forward. Drain cooling system, including block and heat exchanger, if FWC. Remove the exhaust hoses as well as the smaller hoses bringing water to the manifolds.
When I did mine, I made a pair of 3/8"-16 studs about 3" long. Remove the end mounting bolts from the manifolds and put the studs in. Remove risers and then remove remaining manifold bolts. Mine were 'stuck' to the heads via the gaskets. A rubber mallet or prybar, if you're careful will loosen them up. They can be quite heavy so I'd get an extra pair of hands. The studs will keep the manifolds from breaking the spark plugs. clean up the gaskets faces with a scraper or safety razor and you are ready to reverse. If it is really tight, you may have to remove one stud, rotate the manifold to vertical, and then pull the other stud.
I swapped out my crusader style manifolds as the risers were ungodly expensive. I used Barr's mercrusier center riser styles as they breathe better and are lighter. I also got (what was new then) the Mercrusier stainless risers.
I kept having the manifold bolts loosen up over time...called Barr and they suggested using NO washers on the bolts...did what they said and they never moved.
I'd also suggest replacing the rubber hoses while things are apart, if needed. If you have access to a pressure tester (with FWC) you can 'inflate' the closed system and watch for soft hoses bulging. Some prefer the squeeze test and replace any with soft spots. Get new hose clamps, too - stainless."