Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Access to service items on V6 / V8 engines

S

settimo velo

Contributing Member
I'm looking into the issues of a twin V6 or V8 installation. Both the V6 and V8 will fit in the engine compartment. The main issue troubling me is access to the service items, particularly sparkplugs, and the oil and fuel filters.

I've noticed that Mercruiser moved the oil and fuel filters to the front of their engines, which obviously improves access. However, I'm looking for secondhand engines so I am trying weigh up just how much of a handicap this will be if I end up with older engines that have the oil filter down near the bellhousing!

If I fit V6 engines, I think I'll have enough room to get down in the engine compartment to reach right under the engine to change the oil filter. If I fit V8 engines I will not have the room to be able to do this ... I can squeeze into 13 inches but not into 8!

Then there's the sparkplugs. There'll be a 4 inch gap between the manifolds of each engine, so I'm thinking that I'll need access from the front of the engines, to reach down the sides to change plugs.

What do you think? Am I making this a bigger problem than it is in reality?

The project itself is on Facebook if you're interested in taking a look:
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=179427293999
 
What do you think? Am I making this a bigger problem than it is in reality?
Click to expand...

Ayuh,... Welcome Aboard,... It appears to me, you are...
The width of V6s, 'n V8s is the same...
Remote oil filters can be added to Any motor... ditto the fuel filters...
Changing sparkplugs in twins, many times requires pullin' the manifolds, or the motors...
And,...It's the Boat Manufacturers that make access to the motors a Problem, not so much the engine manufacturers...
 
Yes, I was wondering if there was a standard modification to plumb in a remote oil filter. Do you know if anyone sells a complete kit for the job, or is it case of making something up?

The fuel filter is not so much of a problem, because it is not fitted so far back on the V8 blocks I have been looking at.
 
inline GM 6 cylinders would give better access and with the right engine builder you can get 250hp out of them.
what engines were installed?
can you recut the holes for a wider spread?
 
This particular Settimo Velo was fitted with 210hp BPM Oceanics through remote V drives. When I acquired the boat all of that set up was missing. I didn't want the complexity of setting up remote v drives, particularly as most of these hulls were fitted with sterndrives using the 165hp Ford Interceptor. So, the engine compartment was designed to take the V8 Ford block and my plan is to keep close to Sonny Levi's original design.
 
If money is not an issue this is what I would do,

You say the boat can handle two big block fords, Correct?

1. purchase two complete GM 454 HO ( high output ) marine motors. ~ 330hp each = 660 hp. Carbed if you do not want the complexity of EFI, Your choice. Also a good ignition, maybe a self contained magnetic distributor vs the oem style.
2. get two BRAVO 1 outdrives and the starboard one with the lower unit reverse rotation.
2. use a spherical link rod to connect the two drives.

I personally think this would be the perfect set up with great power and reliability.

Also I assume gas costs are not a problem for you either...........


The sound of two nice 454's idling at about 500 rpms with thru hull exhaust when warmed up at the dock........Priceless!!
 
One item of concern no matter what motor or outdrive combination you use.

When cutting the thru hole for the transom assemblies there is a X demenision that is specified. ( has to do with lines drawn from the chines) anyway, if you adjust the X demension UP 1/4 to 1/2 inch (no more than 1/2inch) this will give you a higher speed output as it raises the drive further out of the water when at max throttle.

Just a thought But do your reaserch before making such an adjustment as 1/8, or 1/4, of an inch too much can make a major change.

Think of it as a JACK plate used with outboards........same principle for a desired result, Faster boat!!
 
The cost of gas here in the UK is about to hit £1.30 per litre, so it is an issue. But then the significantly higher cost of a diesel engine solution is also an issue, along with the potential for higher servicing costs on a diesel. The difference buys a lot of fuel! In any case, I feel that putting a diesel engine in a restored Settimo Velo (a 1960's Sonny Levi classic) would be like restoring a Ferrari and then putting a diesel in it!

I like the idea of the straight through exhaust. I have to take chunks out of the engine beds to get the cow horns in, so it would avoid the need to do that. Is it just a case of fitting a cover plate over the exhaust apperture on the transom shield?

I'm currently going to Mercruiser dealers here in the UK for quotes on new packages, because I cannot find a matched pair of secondhand engines on the market here in the UK. I've started to think about building my own solution along lines you are suggesting.

If anyone could recommend any marine engine remanufacutres in the US then that would be a great help. Here in the UK we don't seem to have any companies that focus on remanufacturing marine engines. I guess it is because our market is relatively small.

By the way ... I know what a link rod is, but what is a spherical link rod?
 
Last edited:
So you are going from v-drive inboards to stern drive packages? Might want to check the transom thickness as most inboards do not have the required 2 1/4 inch thick transoms.
The transom takes all the thrust of stern drives, inboards do not. Also the transom angle
must be a nominal 13 degrees to the bottom. Most inboards are not.
 
Yes, you make a good point. I've thickened up the transom for sterndrives and the angle of it is within spec. Most of these boats were produced as sterndrive boats, but my boat was one of the exceptions with remote v drives. Levi6.jpg As you can see from the picture (taken before I restored the engine bay) the stringers are quite substantial. I have increased the transom thickness between the stringers and put new bronze screws - about 80! - all around the hull into the transom frame. Given the bellhousing on the back of the engine will be fixed to the inner transom shield with a couple of substantial bolts, I would've thought that the set up will be strong enough to take sterndrives ...?
 
Back
Top