Hi, Last fall I posted on this forum a problem I was having with this engine after having rebuilt it completely including every single wire, bearing, seal, gasket, filter, electrical component "all" electrical components, reeds, and after running it for 5 to 10 minutes it gradually and slowly declined in RPMs and eventually died. Nothing I did no matter what extent would start the engine again. Confirmed a solid ground it had a 3/4 inch arc on the plug wires I assume that would be because the coils were brand-new including the solid state switch.
When I say this is a complete rebuild I mean every single thing that could be replaced on this engine with the exception of the crankshaft piston rods and pistons themselves was replaced save the carburetor which was fully rebuilt as well.
I subsequently had surgery and was out for several months and I'm now trying to get this engine back into the game so we can go boating and enjoy our lives.
So I put it on the back of the dinghy and fill a storage bin full of water and crank up the engine. Be mindful the fuel tank was completely cleaned including the vent checked a new O-ring on the fuel level gauge and a brand-new connector and hose on both ends.
I crank it over for about 10 to 15 seconds with the electric start which I added to save my back and neck [so I don't have to have more surgery
. ] and it cranked right up.
I was excited and hopeful and then it began to gradually and slowly over 2 to 3 minutes lose RPMs and no amount of manually pumping or moving the throttle cam or trying to play with the timing/fast idle arm would keep it running, eventually it died. I went and looked at my Service manual and verified plug gap reset all the screws and Jets to factory spec according to the service manual and then had dinner. I went back out put the squeeze on the bulb and started the engine and watched it run for 5 to 10 minutes at which point it continued its decline in RPMs and no amount of praying would save it from ultimately sputtering and dying, and it has not started sense this evening.
I might think that this would be due to a heating up of a bad coil or electrical component but it makes me question that idea considering every single thing external to the crank case has been replaced. That is not to say they could not of come from Marine Engine.com defective.
Without asking me or telling me "you might think you know what you are doing" as some buffoon did last fall which kind of turned me off to this forum would someone empathetic, considerate and thoughtful please offer me some advice on where to begin looking for an answer?
I am a very thorough and considerate person, I try to do a better than expected effort/job at everything I do and I absolutely respect people's honest opinion and advice; exception those who show me disrespect as anyone would expect.
And please keep in mind I said everything was replaced that includes the stop switch, the emergency stop switch, the starter switch, the solid-state switch, the switch under the flywheel the stator, coils, plugs, wires, hoses, all gaskets, seals, needles, float bowl, bearings, rings, at Cetera at Cetera replaced on this engine. It was a complete rebuild. Compression is above service manual spec, ground arc is above service manual spec, fuel filter O-ring and filter are brand-new and hold pressure, everything I look at and see is according to service manual spec, I went through every step again yesterday and today.
fuel is (currently) 91 octane @ 50:1 (until I get it solved I'm not going to run it at 25:1 as I need to know it's not too much oil in the gas. [unless someone tells me I'm nuts to do that with a new engine.. ]. The Tank was cleaned and left to dry in my shop over winter. I replaced the seals and o-rings on the tank itself.
also, I checked the rings again and they are free at the intake port (bounce back after slight pressure with a small flat blade screwdriver.]
I'm 'thinking' fuel pump but not sure, I've pulled the carb apart twice to verify configuration, gaskets, seals, etc and don't see anything abnormal.
????
anyone got an epiphany for me?
When I say this is a complete rebuild I mean every single thing that could be replaced on this engine with the exception of the crankshaft piston rods and pistons themselves was replaced save the carburetor which was fully rebuilt as well.
I subsequently had surgery and was out for several months and I'm now trying to get this engine back into the game so we can go boating and enjoy our lives.
So I put it on the back of the dinghy and fill a storage bin full of water and crank up the engine. Be mindful the fuel tank was completely cleaned including the vent checked a new O-ring on the fuel level gauge and a brand-new connector and hose on both ends.
I crank it over for about 10 to 15 seconds with the electric start which I added to save my back and neck [so I don't have to have more surgery
. ] and it cranked right up. I was excited and hopeful and then it began to gradually and slowly over 2 to 3 minutes lose RPMs and no amount of manually pumping or moving the throttle cam or trying to play with the timing/fast idle arm would keep it running, eventually it died. I went and looked at my Service manual and verified plug gap reset all the screws and Jets to factory spec according to the service manual and then had dinner. I went back out put the squeeze on the bulb and started the engine and watched it run for 5 to 10 minutes at which point it continued its decline in RPMs and no amount of praying would save it from ultimately sputtering and dying, and it has not started sense this evening.
I might think that this would be due to a heating up of a bad coil or electrical component but it makes me question that idea considering every single thing external to the crank case has been replaced. That is not to say they could not of come from Marine Engine.com defective.
Without asking me or telling me "you might think you know what you are doing" as some buffoon did last fall which kind of turned me off to this forum would someone empathetic, considerate and thoughtful please offer me some advice on where to begin looking for an answer?
I am a very thorough and considerate person, I try to do a better than expected effort/job at everything I do and I absolutely respect people's honest opinion and advice; exception those who show me disrespect as anyone would expect.
And please keep in mind I said everything was replaced that includes the stop switch, the emergency stop switch, the starter switch, the solid-state switch, the switch under the flywheel the stator, coils, plugs, wires, hoses, all gaskets, seals, needles, float bowl, bearings, rings, at Cetera at Cetera replaced on this engine. It was a complete rebuild. Compression is above service manual spec, ground arc is above service manual spec, fuel filter O-ring and filter are brand-new and hold pressure, everything I look at and see is according to service manual spec, I went through every step again yesterday and today.
fuel is (currently) 91 octane @ 50:1 (until I get it solved I'm not going to run it at 25:1 as I need to know it's not too much oil in the gas. [unless someone tells me I'm nuts to do that with a new engine.
. ]. The Tank was cleaned and left to dry in my shop over winter. I replaced the seals and o-rings on the tank itself.also, I checked the rings again and they are free at the intake port (bounce back after slight pressure with a small flat blade screwdriver.]
I'm 'thinking' fuel pump but not sure, I've pulled the carb apart twice to verify configuration, gaskets, seals, etc and don't see anything abnormal.
????
anyone got an epiphany for me?