"Travis..... You replied "
"Travis..... You replied "when I first put this engine on that would correct the problem, so I rebuilt the fuel pump and it solved the problem. This all started again when I was running back up river from a tourney".
Hopefully someone else will jump in here with some up to date advice as I retired some years before that engine was manufactured.... and my knowledge of its design and circuitry, shall we say, leaves something to be desired.
However, by your above statement, I assume that pumping the fuel primer bulb at one time corrected the problem so you repaired the fuel pump, which I assume is a VRO.
Then at a later date, the same problem surfaced once again and exists still, BUT you made no mention of pumping the fuel primer bulb again to see if it once again corrected that problem. If you did try the fuel primer bulb route again, what was the result?
If the tachometer zeros out when you turn the key to the ON or START position, that would lead me right back into the rectifier again. Check the tachometer as follows. If that engine has no terminal stril but rather has plug in connections, the test will require a slight bit of modification...... splicing the GRAY tachometer wire in to the Yellow wire.
(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)
A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).
A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.
However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.
The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.
Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.
If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.
I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.
When time permits, visit my store at:
http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
When I mean shut down I mean comes to a stop, and dies. There is still fuel inside the glass in-line filter everytime, why is this engine doing this?"