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6hp Evinrude 1966 carb kit question

bolt05

New member
Hi, I have been working on a little 6hp Evinrude and I'm in the process of trying to get it to start and idle reliably. I have rebuilt the lower leg which was internally in pretty bad shape. The base of the water pump basically disintegrated when I tried to remove it, looked like someone had taken to it quite aggressively with a wire wheel in the past and it was quite deformed and thinned. Also the clutch dog shifter was missing, or rather had disintegrated and I found bits of it in the skeg.

Anyway the lower leg is rebuilt, completely new water pump and seals throughout. Pumps water well. Remarkably the motor started and I ran it for a half hour or so but it idles way too fast and I'm fairly sure that when it drops from high speed to low, it is just dying, which could be the Carby seals that are disintegrated and the clip on the float pin that is just missing. It will start and run from cold ok, but I have to hold the throttle open enough to stop it from conking out. So it won't really idle by itself. So it could be lots of things so I decided the Carby is next. Pulled it out, cleaned it up, and of course most of the seals within are completely disintegrated too.

So, in order to just troubleshoot and do the next bit next, I'm now rebuilding the Carby with a kit purchased online. The workshop manual and parts diagrams show there are 2 cork ring seals in the low speed needle housing, but all the online videos I watch are different. Some use a rubber o ring, others use one of those red fibre washers. So was hoping someone who actually knows what they're doing could tell me which seal is actually meant to go in there? Just to clarify it's the Carby housing that the long brass idle mixture needle goes into and there is another brass fitting that screws down into it as well.

Also next steps are to pull the flywheel and check, and probably replace the coils and condensers and inspect and clean the points. Can anyone link me a YouTube video on how to pull the flywheel? I'm reading the workshop manual but it's not making much sense to me, don't have a great deal of experience with this. Some of the videos I have seen just gloss over removing the fly wheel and I'm very unsure on how to do it without breaking something.

Thanks for reading.
 
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Post compression test results.----Replacement head gasket is improved.----Does the slow speed needle come to a point ?-----The tip is often broken on these.----The washers on the slow speed needle are not that critical.----Put enouogh in there to keep from turning easily.
 
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Hi all, so I have done a lot more work on this motor and can report it is now starting first pull and running wonderfully.

I pulled off the magneto plate and replaced coils, condensers, points, and ht leads. I did a carby kit as well.

The coils were absolutely done. One of them didn't even have continuity/ resistance on my ohm meter. Amazing it started and ran at all on those old coils.

I have included a pic attached to this post, but I didn't think this will surprise many of you given the age of the motor. Do wish I had taken a picture of the mag plate with all the new components!

I still have a couple of lingering questions, I ran it on my tinny which is far too big really for this motor, 3.8m quintrex and quite wide. I could get it to plane albeit slowly and the engine didn't reach max rpm, at least I don't think so. I played with the trim a bit and shifted my weight around with a tiller extension but I still don't think I got it to quite plane properly or run at max rpm. Mind you it runs very very well so it's likely the drag that the hull creates because I normally runa. 15hp Yamaha on this boat, don't expect the same performance from a 6hp.

Quick questions, how critical is the washer that sits under the float valve brass screw in fitting? Given its a couple of mm could the fact I forgot this washer affect the fuel level enough to prevent reaching max rpm out on the water. Note I leveled the float according to the workshop manual. It does run at higher rpms in the tub in neutral and in gear, so I still think the size of the boat is the issue there. I plan to use this on a smaller dinghy I'm building.

Also, there weren't any idle screw packing washers in the carby kit so I used a small o ring and it idles like a champ provided I have the needle screwed in all the way, just pinched up. If I try to back it out 1-1.5 turns it cuts out. So the sweet spot seems to be screwed all the way in. In fact, the motor takes about 5 to 10seconds to ground out and die with the throttle turned to stop. I suspect acquiring the correct packing washers might make a little difference?

Cheers. At any rate it starts first time every time and gee am I chuffed to get this 53yr old beauty on the water again. Thanks for the advice, all has been on point and appreciated.
 

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Might also mention that compression on both cylinders was 60 while stone cold. Will warm up and see what the compression tester reports when warm. Have seen the same compression in a YouTube video and given it start and runs so well I'm hesitant to tear down the head any time soon, however it seems likely it could use a new head gasket eventually.
 
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