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68 Evinrude 40hp stuck prop. Freed Motor!!!

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BOATSMAN

New member
I have a 1968 Evinrude 40hp Big Twin. I got the motor freed with some mystery oil and a break bar on crankshaft. I then cleaned all connections.

I got the keg ignition to turn the motor over! I rebuilt the starter motor and took apart the carb. Pictures included.

The spark plug spring boot was rusted to cap of spark plug. I will need need spark plug boots to do spark test.



















Should I put carb back on and see if I can get it to fire? I want to try compression also. Right now, the shifter arm isn't moving. I am assuming it needs grease in the fitting badly.

Also, the prop isn't spinning, what should I do?
 
Well----I have been given motors that had been used as a home for critters.----Some will argue.----That motor needs to come apart for a complete inspection / evaluation.----Likely needs ignition coils / points / condensers replaced---Sorry, bin there and seen that.----
 
I thought the previous owner packed it with insulation HAHAHA kidding

Yes. I plan on removing the flywheel for inspection. sometimes we get likely and it has spark. Coincidently, from looking under the flywheel (it's still on) it doesn't look weathered like the rest of the motor. The arm for neutral indicator moves well.

Anything to do with piston? is there a crank nut on piston shaft you can turn ? I'm happy it at least cranks over haha

The needle was stuck in seat. I cleaned everything real well. The float is parallel to carb body. Blowing into gas inlet air flows to needle. when closing the float the air shuts off, indicating good seat. Do I need a carb rebuilt kit just quite yet? I couldn't get seat out, didn't want to to strip them.
 
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Last time I messed with a rodent nest, I cut myself on a sharp object in the nest and found myself in the Emergency room. And yes, that was the "Last" time. I wouldn't mess with that disgusting junk. Sorry for telling it like it is.
 
Yeah... the prop is stuck and not spinning in neutral.. maybe it is an anchor... Should prop spin by hand in neutral?
 
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took apart lower unit and noticed the prop shaft was seized. oiled everything up and now have a working lower unit. Will most likely do impeller while lower unit is apart. if/when I get the motor running.
 
Compression is 120 and 118. Spark in one cylinder. I ordered a tune up kit with condensers and points.

got shift lever unseized. Took some seat and mystery oil. Now the gear selector works from the controls!
 
so i got motor to run. it idled a bit then shut off. still going to continue cleaning carb. I didn't have my throttle advanced enough!!!!
 
I like how you are trying to get it running. However, unless compression is good and unless you spend hundreds of dollars getting new electrical ignition components.

you are asking to get stranded out in the water. You can get a decent running outboard for $1k. No amount of money saved is worth risking your life
 
johnson100 said:
I like how you are trying to get it running. However, unless compression is good and unless you spend hundreds of dollars getting new electrical ignition components.

you are asking to get stranded out in the water. You can get a decent running outboard for $1k. No amount of money saved is worth risking your life
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I’m on a small 2 mile lake. Compression is 120 and 118. I installed new condensers, points and fuel pump. I have spark on both cylinders.

waiting on a new starter relay to arrive.
 
Motor ran today. Was able to run it off and on and switch gears using a 1960 Johnson rd22c lower unit in my 1968 40853a powerhead.
 
fdrgator said:
Last time I messed with a rodent nest, I cut myself on a sharp object in the nest and found myself in the Emergency room. And yes, that was the "Last" time. I wouldn't mess with that disgusting junk. Sorry for telling it like it is.
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How did the cut heal? Did you get a scar?
 
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