"Havelb..... Taking into consi
"Havelb..... Taking into consideration that a dealership had their mechanic do the carburetor rebuilds (2), I suggest you take it back there and insist that they redo the job properly. However, should you for some reason wish to avoid that route, I suggest that you do this:
Both of those carbs have a slow speed adjustable needle valve at the top portion of the carbs. Just inside the casting of each carb where the valve enters is a nylon retainer/bushing. This bushing is designed to grip the valve and keep it from turning due to vibration.
The bushing should be "RED" in color. For reference, the OMC part number is 315232. In the past, OMC made two other color bushing which were "BLACK" and the other a sort of "CLEAR/WHITE". The only one that is suitable is the "RED" bushing!
If the above bushing is okay, gently turn both valves in until they seat, then back them out one and one half (1 1/2) turns.
Start the engine and set the rpms to where the engine will stay running. Now, in segments of 1/8 turns, and waiting between turns for the engine to respond, start turning the top valve in. As the rpms increase, re-adjust the idle speed just to a point where the engine stays running (not racing wildly). You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or will spit back. At this point, back out the valve approx 1/4 turn. At some point within that 1/4 turn, you will find the smoothest rpm setting.
Repeat the above proceedure with the bottom carb. Hopefully the dealer made a error with the carb adjustments or the red bushings are missing, something of that nature. Let us know if the above cures your problem.
Joe
"