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280 outdrive jumping out of gear at WOT

"I was out at sea on Saturday,

"I was out at sea on Saturday, everything running fine, engine turning at 4000rpm when it suddenly popped out of gear and the revs went ballistic. I immediately throttled back and at tickover the drive picked up again. It will now go to just below 3000rpm and then 'pops' out again. How can this happen at WOT when the gearshift cable is holding it in gear?"
 
"Then it might be time to take

"Then it might be time to take the upper unit apart.
Most likely You have glazed the gear-wheel cones. If lucky You may be able to 'grind' them up, but it should be totally dismantled and checked. Start by getting a Volvo original manual."
 
Thanks Morten for your replies

Thanks Morten for your replies. I have the Volvo manual but needed some ideas as to what the problem is. My boat lives permanently in the sea at a local marina and they charge serious bucks to lift it and store it in dry dock while I do any repairs. I think it's time to bite the bullet and get my wallet out following your suggestion.
 
"As You have the manual, I mig

"As You have the manual, I might point You in a few directions to look for.
1: The 'wear ring' at the bottom of the vertical shaft. Measure the gap between the top nut and bearing - if out of tolerance change the wear ring and the two halv rings.
2: The shimming of the shift fork. Under the screw going in from behind into the shift fork there are probably multiple shims. Take care to get that down to a minimum after 'rebuild'.
3: Be sure the cone does not 'bottom' in the wheel cones after 'grinding'. Same goes if the grooves in the brass cone has been weared out. If it does, the cone must be changed. If the cones have 'blued' out, perhaps You should look for a replacement upper unit."
 
"Many thanks,
due to the ext


"Many thanks,
due to the extortionate costs over here of dry dock time I may look for a replacement upper unit before I have her lifted and then just do a swap."
 
"First, the gear/shift cable d

"First, the gear/shift cable does not hold these in gear.... friction and torque do. That is the design of the Conical Cone Clutch engagement via the vertical shaft spiral splines that the sliding sleeve glides on.

Morten's suggestion of a glazed Cup/Sleeve is possible. Use Extreme Caution if you allow anyone to De-Glaze the cup/sleeve. They must know what they are doing!

I understand what Morten is suggesting re; the ware ring (split ring keeper) (suggestion # 1 above) .... however, the sliding sleeve has more travel than what a worn split ring keeper or excessive vertical up/down end play could prevent as for engagement, particularly where initial engagement is achieved, IMO.
This is not to suggest that a new wear ring should be over-looked..... this is a critical part..... it is Brass..... and if even slightly worn (expanded), this part should always be replaced.
It's relatively inexpensive and takes only minutes to install during an over-haul.
Often, this part is removed anyway.... so installing a new one is a non-issue! (quite honestly, there should be no labor difference)

Morten's # 3 suggestion is right on the money! Your mechanic will/should know exactly what Morten is speaking of.


I believe that you have something else going on here. Again, IMO.
Sounds as though you should go through the transmission and have all parts inspected.

BTW, I'm seeing more of these in need of main drive gear bearings as many of these older units age! So I'd suggest that who ever does this, that he press the drive gear from the Bearing Box and inspect them.... replace....... re-shim for rolling torque value.... adjust back-lash!

I have these ready to go most of the time, but I am in the USA. Don't know if that helps much!
Also..... Don't over-look the importance of Re-Shimming when changing transmissions. We cannot simply swap one out to another without the shimming process being performed.

Good luck and I hope you find out what is causing this.

."
 
"Bill, I would still take the

"Bill, I would still take the time to check that the prop has not spun on the hub. New props can also fail. Checking your prop would take less effort than stripping your gearbox.

Just my opinion."
 
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