I see it all the time also Rick. As you do, just throw some "aviation sealer" on it and stick it together. I don't think there's that much of a chance to hurt anything. I'll bet I have seen more like these than ones in 1oo% shape.
That can and will help, but the important area that is prone to breaching a good seal, is where the aft-most O-ring is to fully contact the full circumferance of the inner bore inside of the clamping collar.
I can almost always get the bolts to seal, but that O-ring for me is the greater issue.
What say yee, Mr. Gary?
Gary and Rick,
Thanks again for all of the info. ...................
#1 will have to replace only two of the small bearings on the verticle shaft in the lower (and the needles on the upper,,,cheap insurance)
#2 I will have to replace almost all of the bearings, but will use the best components af all three drives, so it will be almost new, bearing wise
#3 will do at a later date, as it has some issues such as a stuck needle bearing cage in the lower. All are being prepped for paint now, I start with removing the corrosion to bare metal, spotting those areas with a zinc primer, then any filling and sanding Hit it with an epoxy primer over the entire drive, and then finally the topcoat, a honda grey I have leftover from a previous paintjob.
Still getting all the machined surfaces flat and true, then need to sand in stages before priming.
Gary, I finally got that gear off the propeller shaft today. Bent my press, so I had to "coax" it out with a sledge and a pipe...broke my sledge handle in the process. The other two gears pressed off as easy as you please on the other propeller shafts.
Thanks again guys.
Aloha
# 1, of the two upper-most lower unit vertical shaft bearings, the lower one is a control bearing..... and is actually an angular contact bearing.
Once installed and the drive is back together....., this bearing does little work load. The tapered roller bearing just above it takes the greater work load!
Note that when shimming above the tapered roller bearing race (to the Intermediate housing), that this is a "Negative" preload...... not "positive"! (some get confused on this)
# 2 Will work as long as your gear pattern is good!
The main prop shaft bearing is also an angular contact bearing..... and a pretty critical one.
In the future.... should you do this again....., heat is your friend! You'd be surprised at what a little bit of heat will do when trying to remove, or replace, a tight fitting gear/bearing.
NOTE and just an FYI here:
I can't emphasize enough on how many main drive gear bearings that I am seeing in need of replacement these days. It used to be that it was rare....., now I am seeing about 90% of the V-8 transmissions in need of this replacement. (these would be the tapered roller bearings at the main drive gear)
These too are bearings that you can purchase from a bearing supplier.
Setting the correct rolling torque value is critical here.
The two "driven gear" angular contact bearings usually survive very well!
OH.... check the slinger pump pins. Some have two, some only one. Loose a pin, and you loose oil circulation and upper unit cooling.
Good luck.
I admire your fortitude in taking this on when you have not done one before!
saltwater 280's? Have enclosed pics...any chance of saving these? Seems like they are gone to me, but just wanted to ask the experts!
