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2012 Bf250 Help!!

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Over heating at anything over 2k rpms

And yes I verified it’s over heating it starboard side seems like it’s cylinder one 220 degrees!!!!!

I have replaced everything starting with the impeller I replaced the whole thing not just the rubber, moving on to the t stats and also the poppit valves didn’t help so I did a chemical flush for 4 hours still nothing, I pulled the heads blew everything out with 150 psi nothing was blocked or clogged so I double checked everything put it all back together with brand new oem gaskets running good but still overheating so I figured maybe it was running lean so I checked the plugs and it’s not running lean either.

I made sure water was getting to the sensor and cylinder one area and it has alot of water pressure at the sensor I took the sensor out and water was dumping out in a good way…

Please anything that might help me, let me know if you know something I don’t thank you!!!!
 
Your water's not flowing through the manifolds. Remove and flush the bottom rubber elbows where they go into the mountcase.May also need to remove and clean out manufolds
 
Your water's not flowing through the manifolds. Remove and flush the bottom rubber elbows where they go into the mountcase.May also need to remove and clean out manufolds
I did remove the manifolds and blew them out and I flushed them out water was flowing fine through them also I blew 150psi in the rubber elbow and it didn’t seemed clogged I will check again.
 
Now you have me head scratching, the only other thing I can think of is the grommet where the water tube enters the oil pan.
 
Ian knows a lot more about these engines than I do, but let me go through a few basic things.

How are to testing the engine - in the water, in a big tub, or on muffs? These engines usually overheat on muffs unless you have exceptional water pressure and the muffs are on perfectly.

Are you getting an overheat alarm? If so, what codes are you getting? Code 6 is the ECT (block sensor), code 24 is the manifold sensor #1 (right side) and code 25 is manifold sensor #2 (left side.)

Have you confirmed that it is really overheating with an IR heat gun?

The pisser should be really strong at 2000 rpms. Is it?
 
Hi,
I don't know these engines at all. Ian and chawk_man have the most knowledge of anyone I know on the V-6.

Just an interested observer here.

But something I'm curious about for this are items 4, 6, 7.and 52 in the link below. Those look like water jacket plugs and zincs on both sides of the block.

Interestingly enough, you talk about upper cylinder, stbd side (#1?) and those plugs are very near the upper cylinders.

I wonder what you might find behind those plugs and if they might offer a path for flushing the block?

Just asking because I don't know.


Good luck.
 
Ian knows a lot more about these engines than I do, but let me go through a few basic things.

How are to testing the engine - in the water, in a big tub, or on muffs? These engines usually overheat on muffs unless you have exceptional water pressure and the muffs are on perfectly.

Are you getting an overheat alarm? If so, what codes are you getting? Code 6 is the ECT (block sensor), code 24 is the manifold sensor #1 (right side) and code 25 is manifold sensor #2 (left side.)

Have you confirmed that it is really overheating with an IR heat gun?

The pisser should be really strong at 2000 rpms. Is it?
The pisser is super strong yes I tested with a IR heat gun yes my alarm is going off I didn’t check the codes but I know it’s the starboard manifold getting hot and the boat is in the water floating when testing
 
Hi,
I don't know these engines at all. Ian and chawk_man have the most knowledge of anyone I know on the V-6.

Just an interested observer here.

But something I'm curious about for this are items 4, 6, 7.and 52 in the link below. Those look like water jacket plugs and zincs on both sides of the block.

Interestingly enough, you talk about upper cylinder, stbd side (#1?) and those plugs are very near the upper cylinders.

I wonder what you might find behind those plugs and if they might offer a path for flushing the block?

Just asking because I don't know.


Good luck.
I might have to pull them out and check for my self when I pulled the heads I looked in the block and could see them but didn’t see anything on them
 
Well, I do remember reading another post where the solution was to replace those lower elbows for the exhaust manifolds. I believe the guy said that they "shrink inside" and restrict water flow.

Good luck.
 
Well, I do remember reading another post where the solution was to replace those lower elbows for the exhaust manifolds. I believe the guy said that they "shrink inside" and restrict water flow.

Good luck.
I will definitely check out the elbows I appreciate it. The crazy thing is the boat was perfect. I went fishing with a few buddies and then I installed some underwater lights took it out a few days later and I’ve had this problem ever since. Obviously it’s not the lights just crazy how it was fine and now it’s not.
 
Well, I do remember reading another post where the solution was to replace those lower elbows for the exhaust manifolds. I believe the guy said that they "shrink inside" and restrict water flow.

Good luck.
Well I’m glad you read that post the 90s were definitely clogged from corrosion building up around the outside of them! The starboard side was way worse than the picture you see but I’m not sure if that was the fix because now I’m waiting on parts but I’m 90% sure that will do it !
 
Well boys she is fixed! Thank you guys so much it was the 90s on the bottom of the exhaust I spent about $600 on parts ended up being a $20 repair 😂 now everything in my engine is new even did a valve job when the heads were off so no worries.

Thank you guys again
 
All good, that manifold drain is often overlooked. I always remove and clean them out when we do exhaust anodes. Thanks for keeping us informed, posts like is always help others
 
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