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2007 Honda BF9.9/10D - Replacement Carburettor Confusion

Thanks jgmo.

I got the throttle cable nearly to have full range but not 100%. I initially thought the cable was the issue but as you said earlier it’s the piston getting stuck in the accelerator pump circuit appearing to be the problem.

I’ll order a new cable as well, it could well be stretched and it’s only 10$ with Yumbo.

Fuel quality here is decent, I think Europe has higher regulations for gas quality to consumers.

I still need to get a fuel/water separator but that’s next on the list.

I ain’t got no trim unit so that’s good. The salt spray up the port side of the engine due to a missing rubber seal affecting the wiring is my worry there. The metal brackets and the tops of some bolts were heavily rusted.
 
Well, many might disagree with this but I'm pretty much against using a fuel water separator on outboards this small. With them basically sipping fuel, they're just not necessary and will introduce an added critical maintenance item to the mix.

Let that item go unserviced just one time on the long side of things and it will bring you problems you don't need. I saw that a lot when I had my mobile repair business. Falls under "good intentions paving the road".
But, if you're dedicated to keeping it up then go for it because it can work well for the dedicated owner.

I'll save my energy and efforts for checking on what is coming out of the pump into my tank.
Sell me water at the pump and I take my business somewhere else.

Small percentages of ethanol doesn't concern me very much but the water it attracts and will absorb is the medium that brings the dissolved minerals on board. Those minerals "plating out of solution" are what contaminates the carb.
The pumping facility is where I want to see the well maintained water separator and particulate filters used.
 
But what servicing do you really need to do? Empty the bowl if it starts to fill up with water and replace the filter once a season to be safe?

In a dry climate with ethanol free fuel I’m sure it’s fine without but the climate here is extremely moist, often with wide temperature variance, and the E10 fuel could be sitting in the tank for days or weeks between uses.
 
Well, you don't watch American TV but there's an insurance company that has a famous ad that includes the phrase...
..."woulda...shoulda...coulda"

That's all I was saying about adding a device that MUST be serviced to prevent problems.

Oh, the many 9.9D (and others) owners that paid me to restore their outboard to starting and running condition where the separator that they themselves installed and then neglected I found full of water!
When I would point it out it was always the same reply. "I forgot to do that"

Just don't forget.

Woulda, shoulda, coulda.

As far as fuel storage, I don't do that with boats.
But I do have vehicles that sit alot and don't get driven much. I have been using Chevron Marine Fuel additive in those tanks for a few years now with no problems. It promises up to 2 years preservation but I wouldn't stretch it that far. My daughter went traveling and left her car sit here for about 8 months. We filled it up with 87 octane and 2 ounces of the Chevron and disconnected the battery.
When she got back it fired right up no problem.
So, does it work? I think so.
 
I’ve had good results with StaBil in my other engines. As understand it European fuel regs mean that suppliers are required to add detergents and some other stuff at the pump. So you don’t see people here using SeaFoam for instance. At least, that’s what I heard.
 
Update on this saga.

Run 1 - with carb cleaned and in again, she runs albeit revving really quickly from start she cut out, consistent with the Accel pump being non functional.

(2 days ago)

Run 2 - Changed oil and filter with 1 litre of yamalube. Dipstick shows halfway - didn't want to overfill it. The old oil I drained was clean, no metal particles etc. Ran ok, went through a few throttle changes for about ten minutes before I shut her down.

Noticed that the emergency stop switch intermittently leaves the engine running so that's another replacement item.

(Today)

Run 3 - Added new hose and Racor filter to the fuel system. After some pumpiNg and fiddling got her running nicely at lowish revs...

For about five minutes. Then she overheated and stopped, wouldnt start again.

Yes, pee hole was peeing and the impeller was replaced a year ago.

The engine block was noticeably hotter than the previous runs.

Worse, I strongly suspect she was overheating with the last owner who did SFA about it. Thus is because paint was flaking off the cowling just about where the engine head/spark plugs are.

I cleaned out the passages of the cooling jacket last year best I could. But of course I haven't taken the head off - yet.

Funny thing, I just added a dose of Saltaway to the barrel when I started to notice the overheating issue.

Any ideas? Thermostat seemed ok using the boiling water test but is the old one.

I am concerned the previous low PSI (125) in the (cold) compression test earlier this year has something to do with this, I will run her briefly on idle tomorrow to get new readings.
 
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