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2006 F150 Battey Question (accessory battery coupler)

D

darlington_john

Member
I have a 2006 Yami F150hp with less than 90 hrs run time and it seems to go through batteries every other month. I just purchased this boat used in the spring and realized that the factory hookup on this was to have all of the accessories and power cables from the outboard run to a single starting battery. I have changed this out with a battery with 1000 cranking amps which is better than what is stated in the manual. Problem is, and always has been, that the engine sounds like the battery is dead even though that it is a new battery as it turns over slowly but fires up. This is usually good only for about 5 - 6 trips and then the battery cannot turn the engine over. I only run a fishfinder and do not put any other accessories on - including the radio. A quick look online shows that even a single F150 should be run with 2 batteries; one for cranking and one for accessories which makes perfect sense and that is what I'm doing. BUT, it states that you have to remove the accessory battery coupler cover from the outboard motor to run this to the accessory battery. Where is this on the engine as I've looked and I couldn't locate anything. Is this an accessory that I have to purchase and if so, is this an easy install or should I take it to a stealership, oops, I mean dealer?
 
Boaters use battery switch that switch to "1" "2" or "all". Switch to "all" will use power of both battery and as well as the generator/rectifier will recharge both. Battery doesn't go dead after 5-6 trips unless your motor has a charging problem.
 
I think what your looking for is known as the isolator wire 10 gauge red white connector usually behind black plastic cover.this allows you to charge both batteries without putting selector switch in boat on all, thus resulting in regulator rectifier and charge coil failyer and overcharging or boiling batteries.never run on all the regulator can not read voltage in this position. when paralled the regulator continues to pump out amps resulting in heat causing charging system failyer.never run on all olny designed for starting or pos 2 house batt charging.you can use a pice of 10gauge 105c tined plated marine wire butt connect with yellow 10 to 14 gauge heat shrink connector run to either batt switch house batt side or dirrectly to batt,this circuit per ABYC standers should be fused at the batt. If you like using a starter solinoid you can parrallel batteries from dash with the flip of a switch,all you need is a solinoid placed between batteries attach cables to both large post then to each batt ground small post on solinoid from the other small post run 16gauge primery wire to dash connect to a single poll single throw momentary switch now you can when needed parallel the batteries long enough to start. if equipted with volt meter on gauges note voltage lets say 12.8 start engine batt switch on pos 1 cranking battery if charging system is working properly you should read between 13 to 14.2 run trim up and down thus loading system you should maintain steady reading. let me know if this helps need to know
 
I think what your looking for is known as the isolator wire 10 gauge red white connector usually behind black plastic cover.this allows you to charge both batteries without putting selector switch in boat on all, thus resulting in regulator rectifier and charge coil failyer and overcharging or boiling batteries.never run on all the regulator can not read voltage in this position. when paralled the regulator continues to pump out amps resulting in heat causing charging system failyer.never run on all olny designed for starting or pos 2 house batt charging.you can use a pice of 10gauge 105c tined plated marine wire butt connect with yellow 10 to 14 gauge heat shrink connector run to either batt switch house batt side or dirrectly to batt,this circuit per ABYC standers should be fused at the batt. If you like using a starter solinoid you can parrallel batteries from dash with the flip of a switch,all you need is a solinoid placed between batteries attach cables to both large post then to each batt ground small post on solinoid from the other small post run 16gauge primery wire to dash connect to a single poll single throw momentary switch now you can when needed parallel the batteries long enough to start. if equipted with volt meter on gauges note voltage lets say 12.8 start engine batt switch on pos 1 cranking battery if charging system is working properly you should read between 13 to 14.2 run trim up and down thus loading system you should maintain steady reading. let me know if this helps need to know
 
qhn, sorry if was a little brutle. just so you know you are correct. the engine your running uses a rectifier the stator puts out a fraction of amps compared to todays motors lets say your charging at 6amps you have two 850 amp hour batteries putting you at 1700 amp as you can see overcharging is unlikley one the older modles i addvise out on 1 back on 2 this will put all of the amps in one battery making sure on the next trip you should have one fully charged battery insuring sucesfull starting. keep posting
 
Thanks for the replies. Just to let you know, the fishfinder/GPS is sucking the life out of the starting battery as this is a large high powered colour unit. I only use the main motor to get me out to my fishing location and then shut it off (usually a 3 - 5 minute run) and then I use my kicker which doesn't have a charging unit on it to charge the battery. As all of the accessories and fishfinder are connected to the same battery, 4 - 5 four or five hour trips drain the battery to the point where it will not turn the engine over. Even with a fully charged starting battery, it turns over slowly.

Need to Know - the manual shows how to hook up an accessory battery to the accessory battery coupler and using a heavy gauge wire to connect the negative posts together. There is no mention of a switch. Is this the right way to do this or should I take the boat to a dealer?
 
a typical 2 battery set up.things you need 1 battery selector switch [ off 1-all-2 ]guest brand red housing, ck continus amp rating good for engine cranking, 2 red #4.0 pre made cables run from bulkhead mounted batt switch to each batt ,on back of switch pos1 to cranking batt pos2 to deep cycle house aka acceceries. center post on back of switch common attach positive engine batt cable. black jumper connects to negitive post of both batterys. caution if you leave this boat in the water bilg float switch fused at batt brown in color 16gauge,connect to pos2 or directly to batt. john if you whould like to call a have severial questions to help isolate your week batt condition. ie. cd player memory wire if hooked up will drain batt at rest this option maintains station presets disconnect/// regulator needs to be verified if faulty can also drain batterys. do you have a west marine or boaters world where you live? looking into location of isolator wire on motor this will run to pos 2 on batt switch.ill let you know. a confident you can handle this if you need help i can be reached at 850-570-9393 sean
 
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