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2000 Alpha One 5.0 EFI vapor locks??

J

jscholly

New member
I have a 2000 Regal 2100 with the 5.0 EFI Alpha One. Great boat. Love it. BUT. The last few times I have had it out it tends to vapor lock (or at least i think that is what is happening). If we are skiing, tubing, cruising, etc. we have no problems. The problem is when we stop to swim, have lunch, etc. If we sit more than about 15 min. the boat won't start. Acts like it is out of fuel. Wait 45 min. to an hour and it starts right up and everything is fine. Pain in the rear that it won't start all the time. I run good fuel and the Quick care additive for ethanol. Have two blowers that run the whole time we are in the boat to try and keep the engine compartment cooler. Didn't use to do this. We don't get the boat out but 3-4 times a year. Took it to a mechanic last winter and he told me to make sure I was getting enough air in the engine compartment and everything will be fine. He was wrong. Looking for HELP.
 
The exact moment it happens again see whats missing fuel or spark. With a spare spark plug pull a wire off one plug insert the spare plug hold it to the block and crank the engine see if you have spark.

Post back we will go from there.
 
Having the same problem....just got a 2000 SeaRay with a 5.0L EFI Alpha 1.....We were on the lake yesterday and doing a combination of tubing and swimming.....we would tube for a while and then stop to swim....we have done the same thing about 5 other times with no problem....I first noticed someting was wrond when we started to tube the 4th time and the eng. seamed to miss a few times, i shut it off restatred and gunned it and all was good....we stopped to sime again and when we went to start the boat it would trun over but not fully start....I am really good about running the blower often i have to say that...we sat there for a while letting it cool down and still nothing...we ended the day being towed back to the dock....have i just vapor locked me boat?
 
I've had the same issue with our 97, 7.4EFI Mercruiser for a number of years. It helps to run the Blower even after shutting down so that the heat is expelled. Also, prior to stopping the engine, let it run for a cool down period of at least 5 Minutes. Al W.
 
vapor lock ?I haven't heard those words in years since the 1980's.Ford engines as 351's and such was known to vapor lock.Learned back then.It wasn't a vapor lock.It's called air in the fuel line system.Caused from a leak in a fuel line or bad fuel pump.Vapor lock was ment as water in the fuel lines causing air pockets.Back then,they use to say place some wooden cloths pins on your fuel line.Wood sucks the water out of your lines/fuel.Then I got older & wizer and learned no such thing as a vapor lock.A engine simple needs gas,Air & spark.Check or replace your fuel tank safty valve.
 
I have a 2000 SeaRay, also with the 5.0 Alpha 1 EFI, and I have had the same intermittent problem for the 3rd summer. I have also tried all of the suggestions posted here, and none of them worked. I have also replaced sensors, the coil, fuel pump, anti syphon valve. I am at wit's end on this, ready to dispose of the boat.

I have read similar cases on different forums, but I've never seen a solution. If I ever figure this out, I will definitely try to tell the world. Perhaps we have different solutions, but I wonder if it's the same problem. Let's keep in touch.

While trying to find a solution, my mechanic said that my water circulation pump needed to be replaced, but that it could wait. I looked at the water flow diagram, and discovered that the water is linked to a "fuel cooler". The water flow somehow keeps the fuel cool. Evidently, if it's not kept cool, vapor lock can occur causing the intermittent starting problem. Is there anyone out there who can tell us if a fuel cooler can go bad?

Herb Cover, [email protected],



Let's keep in touch.
 
MY OPINION,

You post here with a relativly new boat, EFI and have done what you can to find a problem.

You say "your mechanic".......??? Is he mercruiser certified and up to date on all recalls and bullitens?

If not you need to find a "KNOWN GOOD" dealer who has a stellar reputation to find the root problem.

They will have the knowledge base and information (hopefully) to solve your problem. If not then they and only they can actually get Mercury to physically get involved.

When I was in the industry and we had a seriuos problem and even if it was only one boat, Mercury would be notified and sometimes if they had no answer to help us resolve the issue, they would come and try to diagnose themselves.

Just some food for thought...........

No one person has all the answers especially here on the internet.
 
Thank you for your suggsstion. I've taken the boat to 2 professional mechanics and a number of "backyard" mechanics. One of the pros was an authorized Mercuriser service dealer, but he wasn't successful. He supposedly checked out "everthing", but didn't see anything wrong. He never was able to reproduce the problem. That is what's most frustrating with the problem being intermittent, and it becomes costly at $100/hour trying to find it. Maybe I need to find another mechanic. It's too bad that a company can make a boat that only a few people, if any, can fix it.
 
Ok I see now,

You forgot to include that specific information so as keyboard cowboys we typically have to ASSUME that a "mechanic" is someone who can fix stuff and maybe not a QUALIFIED, TRAINED, EXPERIENCED, CERTIFIED marine technician.......................

I have a feeling this issues is known and there is an answer, unfortunatly I do not have it as I have never come across this issue due to I myself do not typically do any EFI troubleshooting and leave that for the more up to date and trained.

However I am still able to fix a lot of stuff....................lol
 
I had this problem all last year with my 5.7 EFI Mercruiser BravoIII. The fix that worked for me was a in line backflow valve that stopped hot water from the engine to back feed to the fuel oil cooler. When you stop idle for a few minutes then turn off the key. A simple fix and a cheap one. If you have a fuel cooler this should help.
 
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Thanks ALF1. That may be encouraging. I definitely have a fuel cooler, because my mechanic replaced that along with the fuel pump. I'm not sure if he looked at the valve you described. I'll ask.
 
The valve is part of a Mercruiser service bulletinalong with a buster pump. I would try the backflow valve first since it cost only a few bucks.
 
I agree with all those who suggest that excess heat in the engine compartment is a major factor. And all parts of the cooling system must be up to par. However idling the engine for 3 to 5 minutes before shutting it off every time is simply not acceptable for those who are working with persons skiing, tubing, swimming etc. as you cannot simply leave a person who has fallen or ready to end his/her turn on the toys in the water to wait. And it is definitely not save to let them board with the engine running.

Many boats have small cramped engine boxes with poor ventilation even with the blower on, a marketing driven case of style over function. The above post suggesting adding a second blower is certainly worth a try. Many boats no longer have fore and aft facing natural flow scoop type vents. Perhaps a pair of after-market scoops could be mounted.
 
Ditto here. For the first 10 years I owned my boat, I never had to let it idle for 3 to 5 minutes before shutting off. Nor did I need a second blower. So I'm not sure why I would need those now?
 
So I'm not sure why I would need those now?
Click to expand...
I still feel that ethanol in the fuel is a major part of the problem. It is here to stay and a solution to the problem needs to be adressed ASAP.
 
I went through another hot summer here in Florida and with the buster pump and the valve I can tell you that my problem is now fixed.
 
I don't have the service bullitin number but it calls for the buster pump and valve. try the valve first. It's the cheapest part and easy to put in line. I did both and my boat is running great in this Florida heat.
 
I have had the same ethanol related problem with our 97, 7.4, Throttle Bodie Injected, Bravo III for a number of years. I just ordered the Kit 21-862271a 1 (Check Valve) for my closed system. When i drain the anti freeze to install the valve I am going to change out the 170 degree Therm. to a 160 Therm.. Any lower and I might cause the ECM to read a cold engine and richen the fuel mix. ( All learned here on the Forum!). Thanks to all, and good luck Alf1.
 
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