I'm in need of a little advice please.
I have a new tank, new pick up, new fuel line from tank to carbs including newfilters and primer ball.
History:
Installed new tank, filters and lines, had motor compression tested andserviced. I’m running all new fuel and oil.
I rebuilt he carbs, and verified the floats are adjusted properly.
The motor still pops about every 10-30 seconds from theexhaust and runs with a slight vibration. When the exhaust pops, the RPMs lowerslightly and the motor picks back up. The engine’s RPMs seem to be a littlehigher than normal.
The motor did this on our first trial, then I found afrozen needle and seat which did not allow any fuel into that carb, so I replacedthat needle and seat and the motor ran great for about a mile, then started todo the same thing, so I rebuilt all carbs to no avail.
I am getting spark from every coil and the plugs are new.
I just noticed that my onboard amp meter is showing 12volts while the engine is running. I know an automotive alternator puts outabout 14 volts, and would assume the stator should do the same. I’m not sure ifthis could be related, if possibly the stator is not supplying the power packwith enough juice. And I’m not sure how to test it to determine its function.
I also just noticed my primer solenoid is no longerworking, possibly frozen partially open? There is no response from it when I pushin the key, and no consistent response when I manually turn the red valve.Turning the manual valve does effect the motor, causing to run less consistent.
I have read that the exhaust pop is either poor ignition,or running too lean. Again, all new gaskets in the carbs, and carb to manifoldgaskets are new.
The motor sat for several years prior to me obtaining it.
Thank you for any insight.
I have a new tank, new pick up, new fuel line from tank to carbs including newfilters and primer ball.
History:
Installed new tank, filters and lines, had motor compression tested andserviced. I’m running all new fuel and oil.
I rebuilt he carbs, and verified the floats are adjusted properly.
The motor still pops about every 10-30 seconds from theexhaust and runs with a slight vibration. When the exhaust pops, the RPMs lowerslightly and the motor picks back up. The engine’s RPMs seem to be a littlehigher than normal.
The motor did this on our first trial, then I found afrozen needle and seat which did not allow any fuel into that carb, so I replacedthat needle and seat and the motor ran great for about a mile, then started todo the same thing, so I rebuilt all carbs to no avail.
I am getting spark from every coil and the plugs are new.
I just noticed that my onboard amp meter is showing 12volts while the engine is running. I know an automotive alternator puts outabout 14 volts, and would assume the stator should do the same. I’m not sure ifthis could be related, if possibly the stator is not supplying the power packwith enough juice. And I’m not sure how to test it to determine its function.
I also just noticed my primer solenoid is no longerworking, possibly frozen partially open? There is no response from it when I pushin the key, and no consistent response when I manually turn the red valve.Turning the manual valve does effect the motor, causing to run less consistent.
I have read that the exhaust pop is either poor ignition,or running too lean. Again, all new gaskets in the carbs, and carb to manifoldgaskets are new.
The motor sat for several years prior to me obtaining it.
Thank you for any insight.