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1995-1997 40 HP 4 cyl end caps reed valve and water getting in cyl 4 sn# 0c159200

E

eclipseguy

New member
So what I am doing to resealing the end caps and want to do the reed valves also. Because I am getting water into cyl #4
I cannot find the valves in the parts diagram. I see the block and "intake" but no listing for reed valves.
Why can I not find them in any parts diagram? Whats up with that?
Thanks
Kenneth
 
Well.... I guess I am stupid! lol
So If I am correct the main bearing divides cyl 1&2 from 3&4. Two reeds for cyl 1&2 and two more for 3&4.
The end caps support the upper and lower ends of the crank.
I have never been this deep in a 2 stroke before. Can the reeds be replaced without removing the crank? Or can you swag it?
Should I expect any issues?
 
What is your motor doing / not doing ?-------There are 4 separate crankcases on your motor.-----Each crankcase has a set of reeds feeding it.
 
The reason I am doing this is because i have hard starting issue after a few hours (or at 5 am). Huge oil slick after start up. extended crank to start. Low on power. It acts as too much fuel.. With that said the main concern is water in cyl 4 with overheat after maybe 300 yards at WOT.
#4 plug ceramic is breaking off.
With the age and hours on this engine with my goal to reseal the end caps why not do the reeds? I think to make sure the bottom seal isnt pulling water or the reed isnt sealing.
I removed the powerhead tonight the gasket looked ok seemed great except from water from the impeller to power head/exhaust passage. Didnt have a clean mating mark.
 
If #4 plug is breaking you might have some serious bearing issues.-------If water got inside of this engine you may have nothing but scrap.----Correct , tear it apart and investigate.
 
I pulled apart the engine down to the crank and block. The reeds seem ok however I will replace wile I am here. the red flag I found was reed cage for cyl 3 and 4 didn't spin like a rod bearing in a car. it had been shifting up and down and scored the block and intake. So I am not sure what made that happen or how to correct that. The cage has bolt holes to stop movement but the intake has none except for the center bearing. So for now I am going to clean the sand and mud from the block and look for cracks.
 
That makes no sense as the reed block and bearings set on a dowel pin and locked in with a bolt then trapped by crankcase halves. If what you describe has happened that block is junk
 
After closer look the hole in the block for the dowel pin hole is there but some how the pin wore a grove between #3 and #4.
Then the crank counter weight hit the reed valve stop and caused the reed vale not to seal.
This explains all the oil in the exhaust.
The gasket on the bottom of the block was leaking between the water from the impeller and the exhaust passage. That would explain the smoke from the cowl and overheat at WOT after 20 mins or so.
What could have caused the reed to move around? There should have a bolt from the intake to the reed cage. The cage has the hole already but the intake isnt drilled for it....
My plan is to drill the hole in the block for the dowel pin deeper and a longer dowel pin.
Post some pics later
Thanks guys!
 
If the wrong sealer is used on assembly the bearings / reed blocks may not be clamped up properly.---Pressure pulses then move the reed block forth and back.----Is there a film of sealer that you can measure the thickness ?-----I have taken some motors apart where sealer measured 0.008" thick.----Should be less than 0.001"
 
Good point there was no trace of sealant on the blocks or center "main bearing" cap.
So I am going to repin that block and use some of the volvo anaerobic sealant on all blocks and intake.
plus the dowel pins. The only sealant I saw was around the intake. It was clear I dont know what color sealant merc used.
I don't know what cause the failure unless like you said the pressure.
I bought a set of Boyesen reeds that fit but but not to well. Should I just get stock reeds? Any opinion?
Thanks
 
Update on this project...
I took it upon my self to decide to clean the water passages around the cylinders with my sand blaster. Well what happened was I didn't seal the exhaust passage... Well now the piston rings and the whole block got sand in it. Pulled it down to a bare block.
Looking at the pistons no scuff marks at all. Rings look great.
What I did find was a lot of carbon in the exhaust baffle. There was enough in my mind that the exhaust could not flow to the water.
Is this normal for a 2 stroke?
I did a few years ago run seafoam in the gas. later on doing a impeller change I found a golf ball size in the exhaust.
This engine runs mostly a little over part throttle at a nice pace. I am not a 2 stoke guy. But my weed eater is idle or wot!
Is the carbon from low engine speeds? Or normal for a 2 stroke?
 
Newest update.
I gather all my parts and got it put back together. Fired it up with a heavy oil in gas mixture until the oil pump cleared the trapped air.
Ran great let it run for about 6 hours. Using a trash can as a test tank. carbs adjusted out well "better than ever" .
Next day I ran it after changing water. I noticed to me to much oil in the water. Then at about 1500 to 2000 rpm I was getting a rattle sound.
I am old school so a get out the long screw driver to listen to the block. No noise from the block...
After a few more hours it didn't idle well and the noise was slight at idle.
Took the block back out and started to see whats up...
I found the upper crank seal leaking oil out of the seal.
Also cyl #2 I guess I missed a needle bearing and the rod is what I think was making the noise.
Also on the driveshaft end of the crank the oil seal area is worn and ate up my seals.
It seems there is a sleeve on the end.
Anyone know if this is replaceable?
 
Newest update.
I gather all my parts and got it put back together. Fired it up with a heavy oil in gas mixture until the oil pump cleared the trapped air.
Ran great let it run for about 6 hours. Using a trash can as a test tank. carbs adjusted out well "better than ever" .
Next day I ran it after changing water. I noticed to me to much oil in the water. Then at about 1500 to 2000 rpm I was getting a rattle sound.
I am old school so a get out the long screw driver to listen to the block. No noise from the block...
After a few more hours it didn't idle well and the noise was slight at idle.
Took the block back out and started to see whats up...
I found the upper crank seal leaking oil out of the seal.
Also cyl #2 I guess I missed a needle bearing and the rod is what I think was making the noise.
Also on the driveshaft end of the crank the oil seal area is worn and ate up my seals.
It seems there is a sleeve on the end.
Anyone know if this is replaceable?crank.png
 
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