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1995 125hp mariner

D

Davidaz

Member
I have a 1995 125 hp outboard Mariner I have always ran conventional two stroke oil I want to start using synthetic two stroke oil. Question is can I switch oil and run synthetic oil in this motor. And if I can should I drain the oil tank and start with a full tank of synthetic. Thanks for the helpful information
 
Its not like crankcase oil it designed to be burnt,so just pour it in and go as engine wont know the difference ...
 
I like Pennzoil Premium TC-W3 Semi-synthetic available at Walmart's sporting goods dept, about 5 bucks a quart. Seems some dino oil is better for rust protection as folks on the coast, Florida in particular, mention that element. The synthetic part is great for low smoke and low friction. The only way I know my engines are using oil is by checking the level of the oil in the on-engine oil tank...2002 90 and 115 hp Mercs....exception is first hole shot for the day...after launch, initial warm up, trip out to the no-wake buoys. If you hammer down on it and look back you can see some, not much.
 
Real protection is Amsoil Injector synthetic. It also can be used as a pre mix at up to 100:1. Been using Amsoil 100:1 2 stroke in all my equipment for just over 40 years. Never ever had a rust issue or engine failure due to lubrication. 2 Ontario resorts and hundreds of customers here in Duluth for my repair and used outboard sales. 10 bucks a qt. At 1.5 oz per gallon it adds only about 45 cents to each gallon of your premium non oxy fuel. If you use 50:1 oil at 6 bucks a quart.....as in premixing......your cost savings are neutralized because your using more oil.
 
timguy said:
Real protection is Amsoil Injector synthetic. It also can be used as a pre mix at up to 100:1. Been using Amsoil 100:1 2 stroke in all my equipment for just over 40 years. Never ever had a rust issue or engine failure due to lubrication. 2 Ontario resorts and hundreds of customers here in Duluth for my repair and used outboard sales. 10 bucks a qt. At 1.5 oz per gallon it adds only about 45 cents to each gallon of your premium non oxy fuel. If you use 50:1 oil at 6 bucks a quart.....as in premixing......your cost savings are neutralized because your using more oil.
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Recalling the 1965-68 timeline, was in a Scott Attwater-McCullough outboard dealership and they had this little yellow 4 oz can display of 100:1 and another display of red cans of 50:1 oil (and other things on display)....best memory can recall. Point here is have no idea as to what was in the can, but it didn't last very long on the market as nobody, I saw, picked up on it. Had no idea as to Amsoil as a supplier or their products....had to wait on the www to arrive before I even knew they existed. You know what's worked for you especially in your particular environment and occupation. Great!
 
timguy said:
Real protection is Amsoil Injector synthetic. It also can be used as a pre mix at up to 100:1. Been using Amsoil 100:1 2 stroke in all my equipment for just over 40 years. Never ever had a rust issue or engine failure due to lubrication. 2 Ontario resorts and hundreds of customers here in Duluth for my repair and used outboard sales. 10 bucks a qt. At 1.5 oz per gallon it adds only about 45 cents to each gallon of your premium non oxy fuel. If you use 50:1 oil at 6 bucks a quart.....as in premixing......your cost savings are neutralized because your using more oil.
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I do not believe Amsoil injector oil can be mixed at 100-1, says so right on the bottle to mix at 50-1. They make a specific pre-mix for 100-1. Mcculloch had 100-1 mix in the early 60s a synthetic 30 weight. If you want the best oil on the market by XD 100 from BRP while you can get it and it smells better than amsoil.
 
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flyingscott said:
I do not believe Amsoil injector oil can be mixed at 100-1, says so right on the bottle to mix at 50-1. They make a specific pre-mix for 100-1. Mcculloch had 100-1 mix in the early 60s a synthetic 30 weight. If you want the best oil on the market by XD 100 from BRP while you can get it and it smells better than amsoil.
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Okayeeeeeee. Did you or do you know anybody that ran it? Anything to crow about? I don't know how it was priced as I was using 50:1 as I recall at the time and was happy with what I had....don't remember what I had...just made a comment about the oils I saw at that dealer. I wonder who packaged it for them since you said it was synthetic....dino oil was all we knew about back then.
 
Texasmark said:
Okayeeeeeee. Did you or do you know anybody that ran it? Anything to crow about? I don't know how it was priced as I was using 50:1 as I recall at the time and was happy with what I had....don't remember what I had...just made a comment about the oils I saw at that dealer. I wonder who packaged it for them since you said it was synthetic....dino oil was all we knew about back then.
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Well since that's all you know I guess I am wrong.
 
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C,' mon Mr. Scott. This is a tough discussion. Your not wrong. The injector oil is really not as forgiving as the real 100:1 premix, your right....price of the oil tells the story. That old oil that Texas mentions is NOT Amsoil. Al Amatuzio came out in the mid 70's with his 100:1. The injector 100:1 is for VRO's and straight oil injection systems. This oil came out to accommodate vro's. Difference being....the more throttle opening.....the more oil. Thanks, Mr. Scott.
 
timguy said:
C,' mon Mr. Scott. This is a tough discussion. Your not wrong. The injector oil is really not as forgiving as the real 100:1 premix, your right....price of the oil tells the story. That old oil that Texas mentions is NOT Amsoil. Al Amatuzio came out in the mid 70's with his 100:1. The injector 100:1 is for VRO's and straight oil injection systems. This oil came out to accommodate vro's. Difference being....the more throttle opening.....the more oil. Thanks, Mr

Post #4 is all I need to say on this subject. I just corrected yours and Marks errors I am not getting sucked into a stupid oil post with you two.
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flyingscott said:
timguy said:
C,' mon Mr. Scott. This is a tough discussion. Your not wrong. The injector oil is really not as forgiving as the real 100:1 premix, your right....price of the oil tells the story. That old oil that Texas mentions is NOT Amsoil. Al Amatuzio came out in the mid 70's with his 100:1. The injector 100:1 is for VRO's and straight oil injection systems. This oil came out to accommodate vro's. Difference being....the more throttle opening.....the more oil. Thanks, Mr

Post #4 is all I need to say on this subject. I just corrected yours and Marks errors I am not getting sucked into a stupid oil post with you two.
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There's a "burr under your saddle" for naught. I was elated that in today's world, a forum member remembered, and knew more than I, about the peculiarity of Scott Atwater, a low baller at the time, (ran dad's '55 or '56 10 hp "Bail-a-matic" before I could afford my own) coming out with something as amazing as 100:1 when the days of 24:1 (quart to 6 gallons, engine oil you put in your 4 "cycle" auto/truck engine) was all that was available for premix, weren't that far behind us........and the trail of smoke followed you.....
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faztbullet said:
Heres a lil tidbit...SuperTech dino oil is better than Amsoil synthetic is certain areas.. and it put up dang good results through its not synthetic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZG6EBakNfs
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Very interesting, thanks......so much for the Boo Birds that say wallyworld oil is junk. The corrosion test sorta dispels the feelings of of the big guns on another forum that live in the salt water arena and said that the dino did a better of resisting corrosion, leading to a semi-syn (like Pennzoils choice for TC-W3) for the best of both worlds. Maybe Amsoil and their brand of syn or semi-syn had different additives that made the difference.

On the subject, Quicksilver oil doesn't bother to tell you what's inside, but with Pennzoil sitting side by side on the WW shelf, makes you wonder, and wonder about the 2:1 price difference.
 
Great info. I am always open for ideas and theories....
My experience with full Amsoil synthetic goes back only 40 years, operating 2 remote camps in NW Ontario.....with portage size motors on larger lakes. If you can't carry it, leave it in town. Best motors OMC 15, 20, 25, 30. On/off boats every trip....stored in log sheds. Left 5 to 6 months standing in corner. Sometimes stored under boats for a month or two. Non oxy fuel only....ethanol will encourage oxidation and hydroscopic infection. This has worked for me at from 50 to 100:1 mixtures......but only for the last 40 years......things may change.
No tests, no you tube.......only cold hard facts......I'll trust that.....and often with my life.
 
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Going back to your original question.....I certainly would drain and clean the tank first. Why?.....you may not believe the crap in that tank. Flush out all lines too. I have done lots of these now.....oil tanks seem to attract contaminants.
 
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