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1991 Luhrs 3400 Crusader 454

sqrlnut

New member
Hello, i am new to the forum and new to the Crusaders.
Background: the Luhrs sat for 7 years. the boat was well maintained and in great shape for the year. the Port engine runs and sounds great. when the starboard engine was started there was a small fuel leak in the line at the carb so the owner cut the motor, he inspected it during a restart to locate the leak and killed the motor again. he them patched the fuel line ( so i could hear the motor run before purchasing the boat). he went to start the engine again but got nothing, tried running parallel power (thinking the batteries didn't have enough juice) but still got nothing. i didn't even hear the solenoid clicking.
(we didnt want to jump the starter due to the fuel leaking LOL).
so i have a few questions:
could it be something serious, if so what, and how do i confirm.
could it be just the starter/ solenoid?
if its the starter, how can i tell what starter i need? CW or CCW and/ or model? and where might the # be located.
when replacing the fuel line, what would be the best replacement, i.e. SS flex braid or?
I thank you in advance for any info.

Earl
 
...
so i have a few questions:
could it be something serious, if so what, and how do i confirm.
could it be just the starter/ solenoid?
if its the starter, how can i tell what starter i need? CW or CCW and/ or model? and where might the # be located.
when replacing the fuel line, what would be the best replacement, i.e. SS flex braid or?
I thank you in advance for any info.

Earl
Welcome to ME.com!

could it be serious - possibly, you'll have to troubleshoot to find out

starter or solenoid - ditto

The ID plate should be on the flywheel cover, above the gear opening...

for the fuel line replacement - sierra offers a flex line with metal tube ends and it is easier to deal with than the OEM all steel line.

as to figuring out what's wrong in the starter circuit, use a test light with a real bulbs...DVMs dont always tell the whole story...

get a schematic and track the current flow using a test light...but make sure the fuel vapors have dissipated first.
If you don't have one, I think I can dig up one from the owners book I have...

Could be as simple as the solenoid lost its ground (return path) or the shift level isn't in neutral (so the safety switch interrupts the current flow in the circuit...
 
Welcome to ME.com!

could it be serious - possibly, you'll have to troubleshoot to find out

starter or solenoid - ditto

The ID plate should be on the flywheel cover, above the gear opening...

for the fuel line replacement - sierra offers a flex line with metal tube ends and it is easier to deal with than the OEM all steel line.

as to figuring out what's wrong in the starter circuit, use a test light with a real bulbs...DVMs dont always tell the whole story...

get a schematic and track the current flow using a test light...but make sure the fuel vapors have dissipated first.
If you don't have one, I think I can dig up one from the owners book I have...

Could be as simple as the solenoid lost its ground (return path) or the shift level isn't in neutral (so the safety switch interrupts the current flow in the circuit...
thanks, good info.
i have nothing for the boat as far as manuals (i'd like to get one, Just need to be sure i get the right one) and where to get one. i'm going to try to get to the boat Thursday and Friday (im in PA its in NJ) id love for it to be the shifter, and thats a good possibility since we were at the motor and someone else unfamiliar with boats was starting it LOL
 
Is it possible that the shifter got bumped? That would prevent it from turning over, Also don't dick around with a fuel leak, that cound render the whole purchase idea moot. Good luck.
 
Is it possible that the shifter got bumped? That would prevent it from turning over, Also don't dick around with a fuel leak, that cound render the whole purchase idea moot. Good luck.
He ordered the fuel line and started. Hopefully it's here for next week and we can get it fixed.
He's worried about me taking it for a sea trial...should that be a red flag? I know the guy is meticulous about the boat and the engines, he won't be there to Take it out since he's in FL. He did run the motor and put it in and out of gear in the slip and put it under a little load...
Aside from getting it out for a full sea trial and up on plane, is there any way to know the motors and trans would be good under a load?
 
On the sea trial...guess it depends on why he is worried...

The engines (and rest of the drive train) are best assessed with a sea trial. a leakdown test can give you insight into the engine's condition but doesn't mean it will perform as intended...the gears - no good assessment that I know of without removing them...

I'd stay do the sea trial and go from there...
 
His issue with the sea trial is that the boat sat for years so all fluids and tune-up need done along with needing the gauges replaced (some stick) and their all weathered and fogged. He bought new ones to replace them but didnt have time before the move.
 
missnancy Is correct, i went to the boat today bc his friend got the starter and wanted help installing it. i went up top and sure enough the starboard engine shifter was in gear. pot in neutral and it cranked right over.
on another note, does anyone know where i can locate an in-depth tune up guide for the 454 and trannys. this thing hasn't had maintenance done in years and i want to cover everything.
i'm also replacing all the gauges and oil pressure sensor on the next trip up.
thanks for ll the input, it is appreciated.
 
you want a copy of crusader's TECM 596 service manual...it is way too big to email. it will cover the engine and basic maintenance. The gear is pretty much change the fluid and you are done.

If the maintenance has been deferred, you will likely run into issues the service manual doesn't get into, directly...hopefully, that nugget was reflected in the offer price. At 30+ years and unknown service history, it could take a while to get all the bugs out...
 
so i got the boat from Oceanport to Long beach the other day on its first trip in 7 years. motors were steaming a little but maintained temp fine, UNTIL,,,, one stopped running due to overheating, (the alarm didnt sound) thing with all the swells we had one of the corroded connectors dislodged. but we mad it safe.
after the trip i obviously needed to adjust the stuff boxes, one still needs adjusted and leaks which leads me this,
the panel for the bilge has auto and manual. the bilge itself has a wired float. when the switch is on auto, the bilge will not turn on so i replaced the float with a new one and it still wont work, what i did was wired it the same as the old switch which was NOT wired to the bilge but was on the same 4 wire harness. does anyone have a diagram? i cant find anything online for any of the systems, including the plumbing, the operation of the AC unit or how i can tell if the boat has the heat option in it.
 
You would really be better off troubleshooting issues before swapping parts.

On the bilge pump switch, you need to make sure you have intact fuse(s) or breakers turned on...and if the fuses/breakers are NOT labeled, I'd suggest you do that before leaving the dock.

On you other "systems", you can usually find a lot of info (if the item in question is not ancient)...you need the full data set from the nomenclature plate...and patience...you can always try Luhrs...anything they offer can only get you further down the road. If you need an intro to a given system, you can typically find one on the West Advisor article list...in the old days, they were in the catalogs...and I'm sure there are many alternatives as well...
 
You would really be better off troubleshooting issues before swapping parts.

On the bilge pump switch, you need to make sure you have intact fuse(s) or breakers turned on...and if the fuses/breakers are NOT labeled, I'd suggest you do that before leaving the dock.

On you other "systems", you can usually find a lot of info (if the item in question is not ancient)...you need the full data set from the nomenclature plate...and patience...you can always try Luhrs...anything they offer can only get you further down the road. If you need an intro to a given system, you can typically find one on the West Advisor article list...in the old days, they were in the catalogs...and I'm sure there are many alternatives as well...
i did/do test the systems before replacing. the bilge switch was bad (on 2 bilges of the 3) and 1 bilge i replaced bc the pump cover was so broke from sucking up stuff through the strainer and Rule dont sell the pump cover. i relaced that one with an auto flat 1500.
 
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