Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1989 454 Crusader Electrical issue

K

KONGO

New member
Hello, I have twin 1989 454’s which run very well but occasionally my starboard over 2000 rpm will lose power and trip the starboard ignition breaker. I can reset the breaker the motor will start back up and run to 2200-2800 and it will happen again. I notice the tach bouncing prior to it shutting down each time when the tach bounces the the motor does not change speed, this is only on the dashboard. This has happened twice both times I let the motor sit a while and it will run flawlessly.
This is very intermittent and has happened two times only about 10 outings apart
Not sure where to start. Thanks in advance
 
when you say " ...trip the starboard ignition breaker...", are you refering to the main circuit breaker on the engine or is it a separate breaker at the ignition panel??

Given the age and assuming nothing has been changed (in the electrical department), it is likely a 'connection' that has become intermittent and will give you problems when it does...could also be a wire that is failing...

A serial number will help to identify the specific components used...??
 
Makomark
Thanks for the reply
The only electrical change I made was a new alternator before the season.
The breaker is on a separate panel at the helm.
I ran the motor at the dock tonight and noticed the tachometer even at low rpm’s bounces a few hundred rpm’s. I also noticed the panel lights also change in brightness while it’s running.
I’ll get back onboard to the serial numbers tomorrow.
Thanks
 
That helps somewhat...the brightness change suggests the the bulb is seeing power fluctuations...when you go back to the boat, take a volt meter...and measure the voltage between a good ground and the alternator's output terminal with the engine running...and then measure the voltage up at the instument panel...between the large RED and Black wires where the harness ends at the helm end.

Also note what size the circuit breaker is...
 
Thank you again
I’ll definitely do that. One other thing I noted yesterday was that with the key on and the engine off a large difference between voltage on the dashboard meter and a GPS which I have the voltage displayed which I turned on for reference. The GPS is wired through a 12v breaker panel in the cabin not through the dashboard panel. The GPS showed 12.6v the dashboard showed around 11v.
Not sure how significant this is but I found it interesting.
Thank you
 
assuming the dash voltmeter is somewhat accurate, that's a good clue...if so, the issue is likely between the engine and the gauge, in the wiring and connectors...and would probably found with a series of voltage drop measurements...
 
makomark
I did some diagnostic work tonight which really didn’t turn up much. I also did some comparisons to my port engine as well which also didn’t show anything. Im
Not sure if it’s because the issue is intermittent or not.
I did notice a squeak coming from the alternator that I installed this spring, could be an intermittent alternator issue.
I did look at the breaker which blows, it’s 20 amp.
I ordered a new ignition switch, I noticed the port switch is newer so I figured it wouldn’t hurt.
Both times this happened I just got the boat up on plane at around 2800 rpm’s but after re-setting the fuse the boat ran fine under 2000 rpm’s. I feel this issue is electrical but could I don’t know why the higher rpm’s would cause the issue.
Thanks in advance
 
very possible you have an intermittent issue that wasn't acting up when you checked...

On the alternator squeak, I'd check the belt tension first...

20 amp is a fair amount of current and with good wiring shouldn't pop the breaker as long as it just protecting the ignition circuit (and gauges)...

Key switches are known to go bad, especially if the mounting position encourages water entry...if its original, 30+ years is a reasonable service life.

For most boats, getting on plan around 2800 RPM puts max load on the engine which will require max energy from the ignition system...it could be that what ever testing you did today didn't induce the intermittent...

FWIW, an IR gun can also be used to find marginal electrical connections...you may want to invest in one as they are very economical and have lots of other uses as well...
 
makomark said:
very possible you have an intermittent issue that wasn't acting up when you checked...

On the alternator squeak, I'd check the belt tension first...

20 amp is a fair amount of current and with good wiring shouldn't pop the breaker as long as it just protecting the ignition circuit (and gauges)...

Key switches are known to go bad, especially if the mounting position encourages water entry...if its original, 30+ years is a reasonable service life.

For most boats, getting on plan around 2800 RPM puts max load on the engine which will require max energy from the ignition system...it could be that what ever testing you did today didn't induce the intermittent...

FWIW, an IR gun can also be used to find marginal electrical connections...you may want to invest in one as they are very economical and have lots of other uses as well...
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply
I think the IR gun is a good option.
Besides wiring could there be any other parts of the ignition system that could suspect?
I considered replacing the coil
Just taking stabs at it for now
Thanks you
 
without your serial number or you positively ID'ing the ignition system its a bit of a crap shoot...they had lots of changes in the late 80's and early 90's...
 
I believe I found the serial number on a warranty card in the owners manual.
Im seeing 79001 the boat is a 1989 but I think the engine would be an’88?
Thanks
 
that's why the serial number does you more good than 'the year'... the manual says you have a prestolite breakless distributor...so no ballast resistor to worry about there...

Another thing you can consider is the wiggle test...when the boat is trying to get up on plane, the engine load is significant and many vibrations can occur...you can simulate this by physically shaking the wiring (some people like to also tap the wiring too). Many times, you can find a marginal connector, crimp, component, or a bad section of wire this way...not a lot of yanking but just enough do displace the wire from its "at rest" position.

And one final point, this is a good example where a detailed maintenance log could have helped...especially with twins. If the the port engine had similar behavior a while back, and the key switch was the issue, it would be highly suspect on the starboard engine. When I was charter fishing and something failed, we usually bought two as it was just a matter of time before the other side was likely to have the same issue...
 
Thanks Mark
I’m On my second season with this boat, I wish I knew more of the history on this boat but I purchased it from someone who owned a very short period of time and has no info. I’m A firm believer in the buy two approach as well.
I tested with a multi meter at the dock under perfect conditions I think the IR idea and the wiggle test are next before I go any further.
Thanks again for replying
 
Thanks for the reply.
I recently changed the cap and rotor. I’m not sure if that worked or not but I also changed the coil and it cleared up bouncing tach. I haven’t had the issue since the changes.
 
Back
Top