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1988 Johnson 225: Three questions.

J

jonny62

New member
1988 Johnson 225 (VRO removed)
Model #J225TXCCE
Ser. # G 7745885

I searched all the archives & the internet beforehand....

I haven't run this motor in 8 years, and when I did last time (2008), it was only for an hour & it ran great!. I had JUST purchased the motor USED from a Dealer, to replace my old worn out 1986 Johnson 175 VRO! (I kept the 175 as the lower unit is a spare for this 225 should it ever encounter ROCKS!)
This "new" motor says "VRO" on cover, however all the VRO had been removed, prior to my purchase. I mix 50:1 when filling & have a water separator.
BEFORE starting, I added fresh fuel & squeezed all the old fuel from the line. I checked the water separator and I checked the 2 overheat alarms on the cylinder heads by grounding out the sender wires= checked good!

I ran the engine for a minute or so, removing (then replacing) all the water cooling lines to be sure they were all clear of mud, bugs, etc..

As a result...I have 3 questions:

1) What is this check valve for? I wasn't getting any water from this line, so I sucked on it (engine off) and a BUG landed in my mouth.... THEN, I heard water draining from inside the engine (after I'd run it for a minute or so).



2) I replaced this FAILED cap? Starboard aft lowest side of engine has a brass T with what looked like a FAILED Zip-tied CAP? It started SPRAYING water at the exact time the "pisser tube" does. Except.... it was filling up the engine cowling. I could not find any cooling hose diagrams for this engine?
Why is there a cap on it? Is this because the VRO was removed, & this had something to do with that? That doesn't make sense?

johnson 225 summer 2016 spray RUNNING3.jpg

3) When I turn my ignition key to the "on" position, I do NOT get "the alarm" that I assume is a pre-test for the audio of the alarm itself?
I don't recall if I ever had it before with the '86 Johnson 175, nor when I ran this "new" '88 225 motor back in 2008? The boat & it's previous 175
are both 1986. Did they have the alarm key "on" test back in 1986?

Thank you for your help!
jonny
:cool:

P.S. The motor runs outstanding, except for a small fuel leak at carb's where an in-line black plastic "T" was cracked. I am replacing that T today.

P.S.S. This is sort of a double post, as I started a thread in the "Identifying Model/ Year / Horsepower" sub-forum, however these questions don't apply there anymore?
 
That check valve and the brass tee aren't factory equipment. Neither one has anything to do with the VRO. And yes, the 88 should have a momentary beep from the horn in the control box when you first turn the key. My 200 did.
 
1) Someone installed a check valve..to restrict water flow out discharge or keep bugs out, not a factory item .
2) The brass barb was for a water pressure gauge
3) No self test alarm tone as VRO removed
 
Test to see if the warning horn is present:

Key in ON position (engine NOT running)

Ground the heat sensor wire you see protruding out of the cylinder head, normally a TAN wire.

The horn should sound steady and constant as long as that wire is grounded. Let us know what you find.
 
joereeves said:
Test to see if the warning horn is present:

Key in ON position (engine NOT running)

Ground the heat sensor wire you see protruding out of the cylinder head, normally a TAN wire.

The horn should sound steady and constant as long as that wire is grounded. Let us know what you find.
Click to expand...

As stated in my original post , I did that BEFORE starting the engine

ME said:
BEFORE starting, I added .... and I checked the 2 overheat alarms on the cylinder heads by grounding out the sender wires= checked good!
Click to expand...

The horn is there & worked fine for the overheat sensors.
Thanks
:cool:
 

quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by Jonny62
BEFORE starting, I added .... and I checked the 2 overheat alarms on the cylinder heads by grounding out the sender wires= checked good! The horn is there & worked fine for the overheat sensors.



Nah... I don't believe that was there before. I think that sucking the bug out of that tube must have had some effect on you Johnny. :cool:

Anyhow.... In order for the horn to incorporate the self test, it must be the three wire type... a built in ground wire to go to ground, a slide on terminal for the Tan wire closest to the ground wire, and a slide on terminal for the 12v Purple wire.

A two wire horn can be rigged easily to do a test... simply rig a grounded wire through a spring loaded toggle switch to the Tan wire. Pressing the toggle sideways grounds the horn... the horn sounds off.
 
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