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1985 Evinrude 20 lost spark

T

TedLee

New member
Motor died the other day and has no spark. Spark is being tested with a spark checker.
Powerpack replaced last nite yet still no spark. Coils seem fine, plugs have been changed, kill switch even disabled to make sure no shorting from it. All connections cleaned and checked.
Do I replace the stator next?

85
20 evinrude
model e20crlcos

Thanks for any insight.

Ted
 
Remove spark plugs. Disconnect he Black/Yellow wire from the powerpack. Check spark. If you now have spark, there is a short between that Black/Yellow wire and ground somewhere....... if electric start with a ignition switch, suspect the switch.
 
Thanks Joe,

Dis connectted the blk/yel, and same ... no spark

It is a pull start, no electric start.

I'm thinking it could be the stator?

Thanks
Ted
 
Assuming that the powerpack is a good one, the stator would be suspect.

However, first inspect closely all of the connections pertaining to the ignition..... from timer base to powerpack, powerpack to coils, etc. If rubber push together plugs are used, the pins or sockets have a tendency to get pushed back somewhat from time to time which results in a poor or non existent connection.

Also I've encountered whereas those plugs would have the wire actually broken away from the pin or sockets BUT the wire would still be sitting in the rubber plug, giving the illusion that it is connected when actually it is not. Be sure to check that.
 
Thanks Joe,

The leads on the old power pack to the coils both were just as you described, broken wires inside the boots. And after checking all possible
connections as you advised, even with the new power pack,
and still no spark, I pulled the flywheel.

And there lies the problem, at least I hope it's all it is, the 'sensor cd-2' is
broken. The two mounting screws were not even snug as you can tell by
the image. So I imagine it was only a matter of time before she let go.

So after I get the part in, I'll let you all know the outcome.
This site is awesome... Thanks Joe.

tn_IMG_9171.JPG
 
Wow..... Never run across that before ever! Bet to put some locTite on those screws.

That other coil alignment follows.

To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creats friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.
 
I had same problem. same year, same model as this guy-- with a bad powerpack as well. Screws were tight, but rubbing from flywheel on sensor was happening. Not sure if it was mis-aligned from the last person that owned the motor. prior to reading your instructions I pushed the sensor as far from the fly-wheel as it could go. This resulted in misfires when rpms were increased out of gear. the in gear performance was great, I assume it was because the advance rotation is locked out when the motor is out of gear? Or does the sensor move closer when throttle is moved past out of gear lock position. Thanks for your help. Also, I have seen no instructions on checking a sensor. It appears yo be an inductive switch. I saw no indication on my ohm meter unless I pulled the cord. With the rotation so fast on the flywheel, all I could see is that the sensor was reading no resistance while the fly-wheel was rotating. Do you have a better way to check it.
Again, thanks for all the help you provide on this forum
 
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