Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1984 mercruiser 228 stalling IM NEW AND DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO LOL

R

Ricky McLuvn

New member
Hello I have a 84 century deck boat I just bought off a guy and the thing runs and looks grate but the problem is my wife and I took the kids out on the lake for mothers day and it was kinda a pain to start when it did it seemed fine until about a half hour later it just quit and than it started again just fine than ran about 5 min than died again than after that it was a pain to start and keep running the thing didn't make a noise or anything it was just like someone just turned off the key it has an 84 mercruiser 228 I can put muffs on it in the driveway and it starts and runs just fine I don't know what to do or check I do my own work on our vehicles but never had to work or trouble shoot a boat lol besides this one is my first boat also if you can help it would be grate and very appreciated because I'm stressing out bad thank you and my email is [email protected]
 
Bt Doctur said:
start by replacing the fuel filters. motor is basically the same as a car engine. spark,air,fuel at the right time.
Click to expand...
Now I was told you can't use car parts and the plugs are some type of special plug for boats and I noticed there is a small crack in the filler tube going into the gas tank it needs to be fixed I know but what I'm asking does it act like a car fuel system when the gas cap is loose or bad and is it still a pressurized system since it has a mechanical fuel pump o and I tried doing some things that I've read online and I have a buddy give it gas will I'm watching it in the carb and its kinda a real quick stream but more like a spitting in the carb when the gas comes out and where is the fuel filter located the carb number says mcm 228 1347-8296 and motor sticker says SN 6759622 don't know if that helps any and btw the carb looks brand new very very clean cleaner than the rest of the motor
 
there is a small crack in the filler tube going into the gas tank it needs to be fixed
Click to expand...
A split filler tube isn't fixed it's replaced. Check the condition of the vent tube while you are there. Based on the boat's age the fill tube could be damaged where you can't see. I had an 87 boat where the fill and vent tubes went under the floor through the floatation foam. When I gutted the boat I found the fill and vent tubes were damaged and leaking fuel into the foam.

The carb accellerator pump works just like a car carb; two solid streams of fuel the entire time the throttle is moved...no spitting. The original choke was manifold heat actived. I would think an electric choke was installed w/a new carb. When an electric choke is installed in place of the old the exhaust manifold gaskets should be replaced...install gaskets that block crossover heat. You may want to check compression to check the engine's health.
 
guyjg said:
A split filler tube isn't fixed it's replaced. Check the condition of the vent tube while you are there. Based on the boat's age the fill tube could be damaged where you can't see. I had an 87 boat where the fill and vent tubes went under the floor through the floatation foam. When I gutted the boat I found the fill and vent tubes were damaged and leaking fuel into the foam.

The carb accellerator pump works just like a car carb; two solid streams of fuel the entire time the throttle is moved...no spitting. The original choke was manifold heat actived. I would think an electric choke was installed w/a new carb. When an electric choke is installed in place of the old the exhaust manifold gaskets should be replaced...install gaskets that block crossover heat. You may want to check compression to check the engine's health.
Click to expand...

(Question) I have just changed the fuel filter and the fuel/water separator filter and when the boat is running I don't see any stream of gas or anything but when the boats off it just kinda does a little squirt/spit but it still runs and runs grate but we'll see this weekend out on the lake and yes I will and plan on replacing the fill tube and doing spark plugs cap rotor fluid changes exc before we go out just gotta get paid first lol and btw the fuel filter did have a little bit of crap in it and I bought some seafoam any advice about using or not using it??
 
Now what and where is the carb accelerator pump and sorry for ignorance I only really worked on newer style vehicles without carb's lol I guess I need some kind of diagram or some kinda book lol thanks everyone
for your patience
 
Rick, take one item at a time, or you'll drive yourself crazy trying to find/locate the problem. If you do check/test/replace more than one item at one time, and if you fix the issue, you'll not know exactly which one was the original cause.

Some of us call this the P of E (process of elimination).
Like said, you'll do better if you explore one item only at a time.

Your Merc Dog Clutch drive system uses what's called a SI... (aka Shift Assist). This uses the resistance of the lower shift cable to operate a linkage affair, and a micro switch cam affair.
This SI system interrupts the ignition momentarily to allow for a shift from gear back into neutral.
If your shifts are not quick, deliberate and concise, the SI system may completely stall the engine.

Or.... if this SI system is out of adjustment, the same thing may occur.



As for the accellerator pump, as said, this will use same principle as what you'd find on a car/truck carbuetor of that same vintage.


Also, I believe that the old Merc 228 used a contact point ignition system. See if your contact points were last set using the correct dwell angle.
If in 1984 Merc used their TB ignition system, this will be quite different.
Or.... someone may have replaced it with a completely different ignition system.

When it stalls next time, check for ignition spark. You may have an ignition coil that is acting up when warm.



.
 
RicardoMarine said:
Rick, take one item at a time, or you'll drive yourself crazy trying to find/locate the problem. If you do check/test/replace more than one item at one time, and if you fix the issue, you'll not know exactly which one was the original cause.

Some of us call this the P of E (process of elimination).
Like said, you'll do better if you explore one item only at a time.

Your Merc Dog Clutch drive system uses what's called a SI... (aka Shift Assist). This uses the resistance of the lower shift cable to operate a linkage affair, and a micro switch cam affair.
This SI system interrupts the ignition momentarily to allow for a shift from gear back into neutral.
If your shifts are not quick, deliberate and concise, the SI system may completely stall the engine.

Or.... if this SI system is out of adjustment, the same thing may occur.



As for the accellerator pump, as said, this will use same principle as what you'd find on a car/truck carbuetor of that same vintage.


Also, I believe that the old Merc 228 used a contact point ignition system. See if your contact points were last set using the correct dwell angle.
If in 1984 Merc used their TB ignition system, this will be quite different.
Or.... someone may have replaced it with a completely different ignition system.

When it stalls next time, check for ignition spark. You may have an ignition coil that is acting up when warm.



.
Click to expand...
Ok I just had the boat out for 10 min today and I think it has something to do with fuel, but I'm not sure. I say that because in my drive way the boat starts fine, runs grate and seems to pure. Now when I got it out and got out of the no wake zone and slowly gave it gas up to about 1/2-3/4 throttle. Then at first I'm thinking sweet its fixed lol but that was to soon because it just quit and it was kinda a gradual shutdown. I have replaced the fuel filter, water/fuel separator, the coil pack, put seafoam in the gas and did a visual on any wires and they look fine. I appreciate any help I can get and btw it has some kind of ignition box mounted on the exhaust manifold if that might say anything thanks again
 
...it was kinda a gradual shutdown.
Click to expand...
Bet it's running out of fuel. When it died you should have taken the flame arrester off and checked the accellerator pump for a squirt of fuel. No fuel squirt means the pump has puked. If it's an original pump it has 29 years of wear. There should be a semi-clear hose connected to the carb top that runs from the pump. When a pump diaphragm fails fuel goes thru it to flood the carb. But, if the nipple on the pump is plugged w/hardened fuel varnish it can't get there. Check the nipple...if it is plugged fuel has been seeping for a long time and drying out leaving the varnish to fill the opening. That happened to me once on a 20 yr old pump.

If the pump is good then connect a separate 6 gallon fuel tank to the pump and run it on the water to see if the onboard tank is the issue. The pickup tube or antisiphon valve could be blocked.
 
guyjg said:
Bet it's running out of fuel. When it died you should have taken the flame arrester off and checked the accellerator pump for a squirt of fuel. No fuel squirt means the pump has puked. If it's an original pump it has 29 years of wear. There should be a semi-clear hose connected to the carb top that runs from the pump. When a pump diaphragm fails fuel goes thru it to flood the carb. But, if the nipple on the pump is plugged w/hardened fuel varnish it can't get there. Check the nipple...if it is plugged fuel has been seeping for a long time and drying out leaving the varnish to fill the opening. That happened to me once on a 20 yr old pump.

If the pump is good then connect a separate 6 gallon fuel tank to the pump and run it on the water to see if the onboard tank is the issue. The pickup tube or antisiphon valve could be blocked.
Click to expand...


Im just at a lose now fuel pressure is at a constant 6.5psi and replaced all filters cleaned the flame arrestor, replaced the plugs and wires, cap n rotor and coil and done just about everything else I've been told to check or replace the only thing I think I can do is try and adjust the cables but don't know how or where to start can anyone help with it or this thing is being sold lol
 
guyjg said:
Bet it's running out of fuel. When it died you should have taken the flame arrester off and checked the accellerator pump for a squirt of fuel. No fuel squirt means the pump has puked. If it's an original pump it has 29 years of wear. There should be a semi-clear hose connected to the carb top that runs from the pump. When a pump diaphragm fails fuel goes thru it to flood the carb. But, if the nipple on the pump is plugged w/hardened fuel varnish it can't get there. Check the nipple...if it is plugged fuel has been seeping for a long time and drying out leaving the varnish to fill the opening. That happened to me once on a 20 yr old pump.

If the pump is good then connect a separate 6 gallon fuel tank to the pump and run it on the water to see if the onboard tank is the issue. The pickup tube or antisiphon valve could be blocked.
Click to expand...


To answer your question no I've not done any kind of testing like that yet but that's the next thing just gotta find someone with the setups and also no it's not getting hot it's really running really well in my drive way it doesn't die or sputter or shake really it doesn't even do that on the water eather but it just runs fine at idle and in the no wake zone but as soon as I throttle up it does fine than out of nowhere it just dies but only on the water not at home and like I said I've done just about everything I know how or thought of besides adjusting the shift cables can't find anything on how to do that and I just got done changing the plugs and wires and I did notice the old plugs where gaped at around .020-.027 and the specs said the gap needed to be .035 don't know if that would affect anything to make it do what it's been doing but that's the only thing I really noticed that was wrong o and I rerouted the fuel and vent lines to make them more straight and inline and I would rent the gauges but they want more than I have and I know I'd get the money back but I just don't have the kinda money they want just sitting around lol one thing I did also notice my tac bounces up and down a little and the fuel pressure gauge I put on the fuel line just before the carb also bounces a bit any ideas lol don't mean to bug or annoy you guys I'm just frustrated and pissed off because I payed a lot for the damn thing and can't even enjoy it at least once but hay I hope it's gonna be nice once it's fixed and hopefully not to expensive lol but hay thanks for your time and anymore ideas ill try them out
 
fuel pressure is at a constant 6.5psi
Click to expand...
Was that checked using a "T" or sticking a gauge on the end of the fuel line?
I did notice the old plugs where gaped at around .020-.027
Click to expand...
What color were they? A short spark duration can affect combustion. What plugs did you install?
 
Back
Top