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1984 Evinrude E2RCRS prop removal question

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Donthepressureson

New member
I'm trying to revive an older 2hp Evinrude and can't remove the prop. This little guy isn't in bad shape but after removing the cotter pin, I thought the prop would slide right off the shaft. No go. I even removed the gearcase head and there's nothing odd or broken inside. It spins very smooth and free with no grinding or roughness. But no matter what I've tried the prop won't slide off. Plus, now, I can't push a new cotter pin back into the hole. There seems to be something solid protruding into it just enough to not allow a new pin to slide through it. If anyone has ever run into an issue like this before I'd appreciate any tips you could pass along. Thanks!
Don
 
First question, is it really necessary that you get it off? Second question, is it an aluminum prop or a plastic one? I am assuming aluminum. If so, you must have moved it a little bit, the reason the cotter pin won't go back in. So, if you did move it, there is hope. I agree, beat it on off. OR knock it back on, reinstall the cotter pin and leave well enough alone.

But if you feel you must get it off, it is just the friction of the rubber clutch ring inside that is holding it. If it has not been used in salt water, it should slide off that rubber ring with enough force. As I suggested, you must have moved it a little bit. Just try not to bend it with the beating.
 
LOL! That was my next step, I just wasn't sure I would ruin something internally as I don't know what's inside it - yet. The fact that I can't get a new cotter pin back through the hole and can see something small and solid halfway down puzzles me. Time for the mallet! Thanks.
 
I'm not sure it's "necessary" but because this one and the 5hp, 1965 Johnson I also was working on (that one I have running nicely already) were sitting in an indoor storage shed for several years, I just wanted to inspect everything I could. The prop I thought would just be a simple pull. I guess it showed me!

This is a black plastic prop, so I was hesitant to pry on it as I don't want to gouge it up. I got both of these from a neighbor who is from Ohio and he was going to leave them at the curb for the trash guys to pick up. I rescued them. We're in SW Florida. The Evinrude shows pretty good signs of salt water corrosion that the Johnson didn't have. So I'm thinking after hearing from you guys that the inside of the prop may just be full of crud build up. I sprayed a real good penetrating oil on it last night to let it soak in. Thanks for the tips, I'll keep you posted.
 
Donthepressureson said:
I'm not sure it's "necessary" but because this one and the 5hp, 1965 Johnson I also was working on (that one I have running nicely already) were sitting in an indoor storage shed for several years, I just wanted to inspect everything I could. The prop I thought would just be a simple pull. I guess it showed me!

This is a black plastic prop, so I was hesitant to pry on it as I don't want to gouge it up. I got both of these from a neighbor who is from Ohio and he was going to leave them at the curb for the trash guys to pick up. I rescued them. We're in SW Florida. The Evinrude shows pretty good signs of salt water corrosion that the Johnson didn't have. So I'm thinking after hearing from you guys that the inside of the prop may just be full of crud build up. I sprayed a real good penetrating oil on it last night to let it soak in. Thanks for the tips, I'll keep you posted.
Click to expand...

Get yourself some PB Blaster and set the motor up so that prop face upwards. Spray PB Baster liberally and let it soak in for 24-48hrs. Then tip the motor over on the other side and see if you can spray some PB into back so that it seeps down the other way. Let it sit another 24hrs. Then proceed with manhandling. See if you can jury rig some kind of slide hammer. Key will be sudden hits in the correct direction.
 
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I actually have a product that's better than BP Blaster that is not sold in stores. As a manufacturers rep a company I repped for was "Chemsearch" out of Irvine, TX. I sold their industrial maintenance chemical line in WI. The have a penetrating lubricant called "Yield" that every DPW shop in SE WI used in rusty snowplowing equipment. It was expensive, but they wouldn't be without it. I still have a few cans I hung onto after I left the company in 2010.

Anyways, the "mallet persuasion" worked fine. A few gentle hits and I could see it was moving off the shaft and nylon gear inside. When it popped off, it was full of dried crap so a good cleaning and it will be in good shape. But as much dried junk as there was make me concerned about the condition of the water pump impeller etc. I have a feeling this thing may need more than it's going to be worth when I try to sell it. we'll see.... Thanks for the help everyone!
 
Have you ever tried A 50/50 mix of acetone and auto tranny fluid? It works best when fresh, so mix it up as you need it. My wife can never find her nail polish remover anymore, ha!
It's always nice to be able to get off a prop, why? Well almost every motor I get in at the shop here has line caked in and rubbing on the shaft seal. Often times I have to replace the seal because it's partially melted. Sometimes, however, once you remove the line.....the leak will stop, if the seal isn't damaged. Salt water can really ruin these motors.....I'm so glad that I normally don't have to work on them here in Northern MN.
 
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