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1982 inline 6 2stroke manual

M

Mr old merc

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Hi all,

Does anyone have or know where I can find a manual with powerhead torque settings in it?
I'm doing a rebuild of my tower of power and will need to put it all back together over the weekend.
Just missing torque settings for the bolts.
 
Ah, but he should be! Using a torque wrench on PH bolts is a bad idea, for the threads tend to [ick up aluminum during the drop in, and that makes any torque readings meaningless. For that matter, even clean threads need to be lubricated in a way the torque specified by the manufacturer requires, or these readings are meaningless as well.

Jeff
 
You can buy OEM factory service manuals on ebay. I have bought a bunch of them for different Mercury's. Invaluable resource that the Service Tech's use.

As said above, lubricated torque is different and lower than dry torque. I have sometimes broken bolts torquing to dry torque that were lubricated. Should be in the Service manual plus you can google and find out more.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks all.
Yes I could do the feel method of tightening but I alose consistentcy for every beer drunk while working on in the shed.
There seem to be a few manuals floating around. I can't look at them before buying but don't want to get one that doesn't go in to mechanical detail such as torque settimgs.
Does the seloc one have this info or should o go original merc?
 
I always use a tork wrench on powerheads !!-----Describe in detail which bolts you need torque for.----I will post those.
 
After 60 years of twisting wrenches, I use a system that most experiences mechanics use (whether they realize it or not): the 'flats method'. To wit: Tighten the bolt/ nut until it 'feels tight'--experience needed here--then add a flat or two. (A hex bolt/ nut usually has 6 flats--got it?)

Modern car engines tend to use this same technique with head bolts. THe bolt is tightened to some torque, then an additional rotation (in degrees) is added.

Jeff
 
I spent a day in a torquing lab once.-----Experienced mechanics were asked to torque bolts by " feel " and it was amazing how wrong we were !------Have been involved with tork of bolts using hydraulic wrenches / ultrasonic methods / heating hollow bolts and then turn another flat etc etc.------My advice to the OP is ---Use a torque wrench !!!
 
Sure. Then watch the PH fall off since the torque wasn't tightening the bolts tight enough!

Mull this over: Take a bolt with a nut seized on its threads. Clamp the bolt in a vise and throw a torque wrench on it. Torque the nut to specs. Now, is the bolt tightened?

This is the situation every fastener is in UNLESS the threads are:

1. Clean (no picked up aluminum when the PH was dropped down--nearly impossible!)

2. And lubricated with the thread lube the manufacturer recommended for THAT thread in THIS application.

Otherwise, you're kidding yourself with that dopey torque wrench.


Jeff
 
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I have all my torque wrenchs recalibrated yearly. Have a buddy in ANG that does them as all their tools must torque to MIL spec values. BTW the nut in question are locknuts and torque to 180 in lbs
 
Thanks guys.
The festive season slowed me down a little but now ready to put her all back together.
I have bored my melted piston out and now got all the parts.
I would prefer to torque all bolts as they are done consistently for a good reason.
I have put a tap & die set through every bot hole and every bolt. So now they are all clean. I will probably use a bit of Permtex #3 on the threads so may reduce the torques somewhat if they are supposed to be done dry (Which I presume they would have been).

Racerone, I am looking for all the cover bolts (exhaust, intake, crankcase & cylinder block covers (The one around the spark plugs))
I also need the connecting rod and center main bearing bolts.
I think they are all the main important ones. The rest are not so sensitive to heat or pressure.
Cheers again all for the comments.
 
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