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1972 evinrude 65hp 65273S

T

thufford

New member
just purchased a boat with a 1972 evinrude 65hp 65273S motor on it.
owner said it had not bee run for several years but ran fine then.

seems to be locked into gear and therfore won't turn over or anything.

where can i learn about the electronic shift controller and motor shift mechanism.
electric controlls look pretty coroded so i am gonna start by trying to clean up them and make sure i don;t have broken wires or anything.

thanks for any assistance.
Tim
 
You can push the shift buttons all day long but it will not shift without oil pressure.----That pressure comes from a pump in the lower unit when the motor turns.-----One turn of the flywheel will put it into neutral if all is in good condition and working properly.
 
As said, it will always be in forward gear if not running. But that doesn't mean the electrical system is all good. The shift switch in the control is somewhat troublesome, and you say your control is corroded. And the shift switch is in the starting circuit (neutral button must be pressed for starter to operate). New switches are hard to find and $$$$. Let's hope you are comfortable with diagnosing electrical circuits. Otherwise, you may need some help on this one.
 
********************
(Hydro Electric Shift System Explained)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE 1 -The ohm reading of the individual shift solenoids should be between 5 to 6 ohms. The ohm meter should be set to low ohms. The shift wires leading to the solenoids must be disconnected when being tested.

NOTE 2 - The solenoid plunger measurement must be made with the solenoid placed within the lower unit. The measurement must be approximately 1/64" beneath the top surface of the solenoid... NOT above the solenoid surface nor any lower than 1/64" of the solenoid surface. This factory measurement is critical and will not ever change UNLESS someone has tinkered with it.

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

Note: The engine must be running OR have the driveshaft turning by some other means in order for the engine to shift.

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).

With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

********************
 
fdrgator said:
As said, it will always be in forward gear if not running. But that doesn't mean the electrical system is all good. The shift switch in the control is somewhat troublesome, and you say your control is corroded. And the shift switch is in the starting circuit (neutral button must be pressed for starter to operate). New switches are hard to find and $$$$. Let's hope you are comfortable with diagnosing electrical circuits. Otherwise, you may need some help on this one.
Click to expand...


do you know where i can get a copy ot the wiring chart and stuff for this motor?

thanks
Tim
 
OK here is what i got so far. wires and termial connectors looked rough so i replace all the terminal connectors at the remote control.
i have metered each wire from the plug in the motor housing to the remote to be sure i had no shorts or broken wires.

when i first connect battery, i have contstant power to the ignition, as soon as i hit the choke switch or anything i loose power to the ignition, after a minute or so it usually returns. if i hit the start, sometime nothing , sometimes the starter sulinoid clicks a few times then nothing & i have to wait for power to return to the ignition.
i have check battery voltage and it is good.
i have spun motor with remote in neutral and i think it is in neutral.
have tried throttle in all positions from slow to start with no change in results.
if i jump straight to starter terminal motor turns over fine and prop does not spin.

wondering if what i am experiencing is normal and i am being shut down by a safety or if something is incorrect.
i don't think i have got to a point where the remote relays come into play but maybe i'm wrong.

where are the actual solenoids? are they inside the remote or in the engine housing.

going to start the metering process listed sunday after work. but wanted to see if anybody knew what i was experiencing as normal or not.

any direction would be appreciated.
thanks
Tim
 
Symptoms point to a bad battery connection or a bad battery cable. Get your eyes and mind off the shift solenoids (they are in the lower unit and have nothing at all to do with the starter)
 
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