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1972 Evinrude 100293R Diode question for Joe Reeves

7

72Rude

New member
This is primarily for Joe Reeves..

I am trying to install the diode in your mentioned fox for voltage drop to pulse pack on this old engine.

My question is

There are 4 terminals on the starter solenoid. I will list them from top to bottom as if the solenoid is mounted on the power head below.

Top - Hot Battery (Large terminal)

Upper terminal - “S” (smaller terminal) white wire from key switch

Lower terminal - “I” (smaller terminal) white wire leading to Safety Switch

Bottom - Starter Motor (Large Terminal) 6ga red wire bridging starter motor to starter solenoid

Which terminal does the diode get installed on? Is it a separate wire (jumper) that leads from one of the starter solenoid terminals to the terminal block (Terminal 8 or 9)?

I currently have a 16ga purple jumper wire attached from the Upper “S” terminal leading to the terminal block.

I am still seeing less than 9v when cranking when probing the ignition terminal spots on the terminal block. Strong spark that jumps gap on gap spark tester on all 4 cylinders but does not want to start and stay running.

Please help!
 
Terminal that has the one wire that goes to the starter.---From there to energize the amplifier via the terminal block.-----Take starter apart and inspect.----Do ohm check on armature.
 
Agreed. But it won't help unless you figure out why only 9V cranking. The mod doesn't make magic.

In fact, I dispute the value of the mod in the first place. There is 0.7V forward voltage drop across a diode.
 
fdrgator said:
Agreed. But it won't help unless you figure out why only 9V cranking. The mod doesn't make magic.

In fact, I dispute the value of the mod in the first place. There is 0.7V forward voltage drop across a diode.
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When cranking I only get about 8.5-9v out of the starter motor when testing with MM. what is the most likely culprit here? I have load tested battery and it passed. CDI is firing so that is good but the voltage drop seems massive. Resting voltage on ignition terminals on terminal block check out at 12v but when cranking it drops significantly.

Starter overheated last night when trying to get it to start and would not turn flywheel. What are the testing procedures for starter motor? Can it be cleaned and reassembled?
 
Does anyone know which plug wire goes to which cylinder on this model? Mine are not tagged. I am having issues locating a diagram depicting this..
 
Cranked it over after work with a blast of starting fluid and it sounded like a shotgun. Super loud backfire but will not start running. Is the timing adjustable on this thing my manual only really depicts adjustment of the timing pointer..
Is it adjusted through the throttle cable? The only other timing related mention I have to reference calls out the full throttle advance stop.

It seems like timing might be off and I’m at a loss on how to adjust on muffs. I loosened cam follower screw, snapped them closed and tightened linkage. Then adjusted the yoke to make the cam closer to the follower and adjusted follower screw so it bisects top notch on follower. Did I miss something? Is there a strip I missed or wrong order? The manual is beat up and missing a few pages. Also hard to read with the jumping from section to section.

Thank you
 
racerone said:
??----You will see that the distributor cap is marked ---1 / 2 / 3 / 4 to locate the plug wires.
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Mine has little circles and the only markings that still exist in the circles are one tower says 2 and one has a “M” enclosed in a box. The other towers have blank circles. Likely worn off due to age.
 
Anybody have a clue as to why it would crank and backfire but not catch and run?

Is it likely plugs are swapped around? Or timing related? As I mentioned I do not have full documentation on the process for the 1972 model 100hp. It seems all other models/years of the Starflite motors have more adjustments/reference points to make adjustments.

Can someone link a good video or something? I’m having issues finding one that is detailed and pertains to my model (100293R)

Thanks
 
About that backfire: You have been trying to start that motor without success. Every time you try, you are dumping fuel into the cylinders and it has gone out the exhaust, unburnt. Including some starting fluid. Eventually, you managed to get a spark that ignited that fuel in the exhaust system, and it exploded--like a shotgun. That is not a defect, just a result.

You say you already did the first troubleshooting test which was having the battery load tested. and it passed. Do you know what a voltage drop test is, and how to do it? That would be my second troubleshooting step.
 
fdrgator said:
About that backfire: You have been trying to start that motor without success. Every time you try, you are dumping fuel into the cylinders and it has gone out the exhaust, unburnt. Including some starting fluid. Eventually, you managed to get a spark that ignited that fuel in the exhaust system, and it exploded--like a shotgun. That is not a defect, just a result.

You say you already did the first troubleshooting test which was having the battery load tested. and it passed. Do you know what a voltage drop test is, and how to do it? That would be my second troubleshooting step.
Click to expand...
I do not know how to do a complete voltage drop test. Would you be able to give me the run down?

Spark jumps gap on all 4 cylinders with strong blue snap each time when cranking without fail (plugs in cylinders to simulate working compression) so I am pretty sure it is not an issue of no spark at all.

What usually causes me to call it for the night lately is when the battery eventually cannot help the starter to move fast enough from trying too many times. (Less than 12V)
 
This started out as a question concerning the diode mod. Now it has evolved into a won't run situation even though it has strong spark on all four cylinders. I really don't know what to say. Are you checking for spark on all 4 cylinders at the same time (to eliminate the possibility of cross-firing within the distributor)?
 
fdrgator said:
This started out as a question concerning the diode mod. Now it has evolved into a won't run situation even though it has strong spark on all four cylinders. I really don't know what to say. Are you checking for spark on all 4 cylinders at the same time (to eliminate the possibility of cross-firing within the distributor)?
Click to expand...
No I only have one gap tester so I have been doing them individually.
 
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