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1971 60 hp misfiring at greater than 1/2 throttle after warmed up

AeroCraft

New member
My 1971 60 hp evininrude misfires after warming up when going past half throttle.
Work completed:
Carbs disassembled and cleaned
Fuel pump replaced
Cdi and coil unit replaced
plugs replaced
carbs synced and timing set to spec
points gapped to .010”
any help will be greatly appreciated
motor has over 120 psi in each cylinder and has very low hours
 
So, what type plugs did you install? If you are trying to run those surface gap plugs that came with the motor, forget it. Throw those things into the deepest hole in the lake and install a set of Champion L77JC4 or QL77JC4, gapped at 0.035". Nah, on second thought don't throw them into the lake. That would be environmentally irresponsible.
 
When the carbs were "disassembled and cleaned", did you purchase carb kits? I've supplied a diagram of the carb. Items #4 and #5 absolutely must be removed so that you can clean, run a small wire through, and spray compressed air through the small passages beneath those lead plugs. You'll need to purchase carb kits so you can replace these plugs once you've cleaned the passages that they cover. Also, did your remove the jets, #35 (called an orifice in the diagram) and the hole that the screw #30 goes into. #35 often gets clogged if the motor sits for a while since any trash in the fuel settles to the bottom and as the fuel evaporates, these jets get clogged with the sediment. You need to clean the holes in these lower jets until you can see through the hole and see a perfectly round hole. Fuel fills the bowl of the carburetor, and that jet (orifice) allows gas to flow through into that raise round area in the middle of the bowl. On the bottom of the carburetor, there is a brass tube with a series of small holes in it that fits down into that raised center hole in the bowl of the carburetor. That's your emulsion tube. It sucks gas into the motor. The gas that gets sucked into that tube has to pass through that jet. If it's clogged, you get no fuel supply. On older motors that jet in the bowl #35 is very difficult to remove. A good way to see if it's good and clean is to shine a flashlight into the bowl of the carburetor and then look through the opening where the drain screw for the bowl is located and make sure that the light can be seen coming through the jet. The light must show a perfectly round circle.
 
Last checked it was 12.5 volts
gone through cap and rotor again and found no carbon streaks but showing wear. New parts very hard to find and expensive
 
Sorry, forgot to include some pictures. I've attached the diagram of the carb. When you order the carb kits, I'd also order a "carburetor jet cleaning tool" on amazon that is great for cleaning passages and jets on a carburetor. Start with a small "needle" and gradually work your way up until you find one that fits very snug in the jets/passages to get any contamination off the surface of the walls of the hole. Just a film buildup on the inside of the hole is enough to cause a restriction of the correct amound of fuel flow.
 
When the carbs were "disassembled and cleaned", did you purchase carb kits? I've supplied a diagram of the carb. Items #4 and #5 absolutely must be removed so that you can clean, run a small wire through, and spray compressed air through the small passages beneath those lead plugs. You'll need to purchase carb kits so you can replace these plugs once you've cleaned the passages that they cover. Also, did your remove the jets, #35 (called an orifice in the diagram) and the hole that the screw #30 goes into. #35 often gets clogged if the motor sits for a while since any trash in the fuel settles to the bottom and as the fuel evaporates, these jets get clogged with the sediment. You need to clean the holes in these lower jets until you can see through the hole and see a perfectly round hole. Fuel fills the bowl of the carburetor, and that jet (orifice) allows gas to flow through into that raise round area in the middle of the bowl. On the bottom of the carburetor, there is a brass tube with a series of small holes in it that fits down into that raised center hole in the bowl of the carburetor. That's your emulsion tube. It sucks gas into the motor. The gas that gets sucked into that tube has to pass through that jet. If it's clogged, you get no fuel supply. On older motors that jet in the bowl #35 is very difficult to remove. A good way to see if it's good and clean is to shine a flashlight into the bowl of the carburetor and then look through the opening where the drain screw for the bowl is located and make sure that the light can be seen coming through the jet. The light must show a perfectly round circle.
Did not purchase kits but fully disassembled and cleaned all orfices . If carbs were problem then why misfiring only after a few laps around lake and motor is well warmed up. Note temp of motor within range from manual using temperature gun. Low speed needle #30 removed and hole cleaned. Main jets #35 were removed and soaked in acetone but were very clean to start with also used proper sized drill bit to make sure clearance was correct. Small plugs #4and 5 I did not remove since did not have replacements but will attempt this winter if not resolved.
 
Sorry, forgot to include some pictures. I've attached the diagram of the carb. When you order the carb kits, I'd also order a "carburetor jet cleaning tool" on amazon that is great for cleaning passages and jets on a carburetor. Start with a small "needle" and gradually work your way up until you find one that fits very snug in the jets/passages to get any contamination off the surface of the walls of the hole. Just a film buildup on the inside of the hole is enough to cause a restriction of the correct amound of fuel flow.
Do you have carb kit number from Amazon having hard time finding correct one with all parts. Thanks
 
Yes! Amazon carb kits are complete garbage! I've bought twice. Regretted it both times. Didn't learn the first time. Most recently, the kit for my 115 Yamaha had needle valves that were actually shorter than factory ones and they would not turn fuel flow off!! Also, when I pulled them off and opened them up, the bowl gaskets immediately swelled up and lost their shape! Bowl gaskets that apparently can't handle exposure to gasoline! Use only OEM carb kits. Cost twice as much, but you'll get exactly what you need.
 
Has the clipper been removed? Sounds like either the ignition is breaking down or possible water intrusion into a cylnder
 
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