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1968 Merc 110 Need Help

M

mburks

New member
Hello Everyone!

I am a newbie here. I am hoping you all can help. My grandfather gave me a Merc 110 9.8 HP outboard. I am hoping to use it on my 14 foot flatbottom. I am having problems finding parts. I have been able to figure out the model is 110108. The serial number begins with 2291038. I am needing a new stop button spring and cover, hood gasket, pull rope gasket, whatever button or switch that went on the fuel selector, and the set of three wires that comes off of the back of the stop switch.
So far I have been able to only locate the stop button spring and cover. Can someone please help me locate the remaining items? I have looked everywhere. This motor is really clean on the inside and doesn't appear to have been run or exposed to the elements. I would like to get it running but don't know if I can find the parts and if they will be affordable.

Thanks for the help!
 
You don't need the stop switch. I've done dozens of these motors and most of them have a dead kill switch. All you need to do, to shut her down, is pull the choke (or, if you're handy, readjust the idle speed too slow, so it will die on its own). Give her some throttle, and the little beauty will fire right back up with a pull or two.

With ethanol gas, everyone should ALWAYS run the carb dry before shutting down for the day (by pulling the connector and waiting for it to die). Again, no kill switch is needed.

On the hood gaskets, you're in trouble there. You best chance to get something that works would be to look into a J C Whitney catalog (on-line). They have a wide selection of all kinds of rubbers to choose from. Used several different types on my kit cars (the red car in the thumb print).

Jeff
 
Thanks Jeff. I will give JC Whitney a try on the gaskets. I can throttle down or choke it to kill it and that will work too. I maybe able to salvage this old thing after all.
 
You can rebuild that stop button. I have a 67 9.8 that I just got running again after 35 years of sitting in my dad's basement. The stop button wire insulation was completely disintegrated, the button was loose and someone had twisted it apparently trying to tighten it which wound bare wire to bare wire etc etc. I repaired it by dismantling it and removing the 2 contact pins that make contact with the little concave steel button that sits on top the spring inside the stop switch. Then i took some 14 gauge braided wire and soldered the end so it was a nice hard end. Then I pushed it up through the hard black plastic part and slid the soft rubber part over that. I also used some JB weld when I inserted the wires so they wouldn't push out. Here's some before and after pix that should help you understand what I'm talking about.

20150426_165924.jpg

20150505_183502.jpg
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
I cannot find it I do have the base with three wires but is no better shape than yours. I believe the black wire is just a chassis ground and the two whites are the kill circuit?
Click to expand...

That's correct. My 67 had 2 yellow and a black ground wire all encased in shrink wrap, or something like that. I'm not sure what caused the insulation to desolve but most of the wire was bare and corroded green. This is what it looks like after the repair. If you look closely where the 2 yellow wires go into the stop switch you can see some of the JB Weld that holds them in.
20150606_173605.jpg20150606_173552.jpg
 
A note of caution: You can connect the two wires coming from the mag together (one from each set of points) and the motor will stop, BUT it is not effective at high rpms (as racers have discovered to their peril). What Merc did was make a dual circuit kill switch that sent both points voltage to ground.

Jeff
 
The way I showed my repair is the way it was wired from Merc. The only difference is I didn't encase all 3 wires in shrinkwrap.
 
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