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1964 Mercury 110 HELP FROM THE EXPERTS

Hey Guys,

I just picked up a 1964 Mercury 110 from a friend for a great price. He said it runs and is fully functional EXCEPT that it needs a new power pack. I can't find one of the life of me. Does anyone know 1. where to get one or 2. if I retrofit the power pack from a different or later motor?

It has new points, it came with the tank and a new one of the bayonet gas hook ups, I just can't find the pack and don't know how to proceed. Please help a complete novice with boat motors!
 
A 1964 motor has points under the flywheel not Thunderbolt CDI, check/post your serial Nr. to find the exact year or post some images. How can it run without an ignition system?
 
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There is a problem with identification of your motor.----A 1964 does not have a powerpack.-----Motors with powerpack ( switch box ) do not have points.-----Pixtures needed to help you.
 
There is a problem with identification of your motor.----A 1964 does not have a powerpack.-----Motors with powerpack ( switch box ) do not have points.-----Pixtures needed to help you.

The serial number is 1703051, from my look up that is a 64 correct?


He said that the its "a slim pack that lives under the flywheel that needs replaced"

Do I have my terminology wrong?
 
Stop !!----It might just need breaker points cleaned and set to the correct gap.----A new magneto ( coil ) if you can find one is big $$$ at $160 each on this site.----.------Used parts are available.-----Your location ?
 
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Stop !!----It might just need breaker points cleaned and set to the correct gap.----A new magneto ( coil ) if you can find one is big $$$ at $160 each on this site.----.------Used parts are available.-----Your location ?

Hahah thank you for looking out! I am not doing anything hastily don't worry. I am just trying to find the resources. I am in Northeast Tennessee. He just put brand new points in and gapped them but I am sure I will have to check that once I have it apart. I don't really even know where to start looking for the right coil or how to find the part # without buying a parts manual from somewhere.
 
Just a few clicks here.----Look above.----Click on box for ----ENGINE DIAGRAMS-----It is all there for you under the 110 designation.
 
The best source for NLA outboard parts I have seen is american outboard motors....in cordova, MD...ITs usually best to call them in the middle of the week.
 
Ok everyone, I have the motor in my possession. It really is in excellent shape and is getting good compression. It has new points installed by an experience mechanic and gap. It also has new plugs. Its not producing spark and I suspect it may in fact be the magneto. Can anyone point me to a resource on how I could go about testing it?
 
It will also need a new water pump impeller if you get it running.-----Find local chapter of the ---aomci---Post a help wanted ad.-----You may have a grey haired mechanic buddy in your area who can help you.
 
Update: I used an ohmeter to test the condensers, magneto coils, and wiring and they were all in spec. I noticed the gapping on the points wasn't perfect so I regapped the points to 0.02 and got them tuned up. After putting it back together I am getting spark now via my tester in both cylinders. I also did a rudimentary test on the magnet in the flywheel and it seems to be strong enough? Not exactly an expert hahah

Tomorrow I am going to put some fuel in it and see if I can get her to run now that I have spark. Hoping its strong enough as all the components seems to be in functioning order
 
Ok no dice on starting yet. While I was trying to get it running I noticed the wires coming from my kill button are basically crumbling. That may be my issue. I am investigating how to test that system now and they will need replaced no matter what
 
Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more , yes or no
Well, it is difficult to ascertain the exact distance because this model requires the cowling on and locked for you to spin the flywheel. I dont have an impact gun strong enough to spin the flywheel at speed so the best I can do is use a wrench to test the spark at a moment which gets a spark but its at a reduced speed because I am hand cranking it. I know when I started the testing it had no spark whatsoever
 
Ok so I removed the kill switch and wiring so thats out of the picture and went ahead and ordered a new kill switch with a lanyard. that allowed me to run my spark plug wires out of the kill switch hole one at a time and pull start, I get a bright spark on the detector and both plugs when I pull, which is great progress. Now I need to try and gap it somehow. Working on that now. If I get it to jump that gap, what is my next move to check? Carb?

If I spray some fuel in the carb intake and give it a pull it doesnt seem to make a difference. I was trying to get around the fuel pump that way. It smells like the carb is getting fuel when I pull start it
 
I made a 1/4 inch gap tester using some clear shrink tubing, two nails, and calipers to measure the gap. Every pull both cylinder leads produce a spark that jumps the 1/4 inch gap.
 
Ok, I got it to run today and put for a short time by spraying the fuel mixture into the carb. Great progress! The fuel pump doesn seem to be moving much fuel and had some crud in it + degraded gaskets but it was filling the fuel bowl and it wouldn't start run with a full bowl. I ordered a fuel pump rebuild kit, carb rebuild kit, and new impeller. Getting closer
 
Ok, I have the motor running now. I still need to tune the carb but when I pulled it apart the float needle was stuck to the seat. Its not peeing yet so the impeller and pee hole check are next
 
Ok guys, she is running and peeing great with the new impeller in. Still figuring out this whole carb tuning thing and I think I am a little lean still as it prefers to idle with the choke open. Will be looking to sea trial her on my gheenoe as soon as the weather clears in the next day or two. Thrilling to hear it purring in the garage after lots of work and research honestly. Still under 200 bucks all in on this thing
 
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