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1958 Evinrude Lark 35hp model Number 35514

S

Swendsoa

New member
Hi everyone,

I'm restoring a 1958 Evinrude Lark 35hp. This is the first outboard I've every tried to restore. As I have been going through and cleaning all the individual engine parts, I have run into some issues. The main issues I'm struggling with right now is that the wiring harness is too deteriorated to reuse and I can't find a wiring harness for the engine. The part is obsolete. Now this being said, I'm looking for what my options are. This particular engine has a pull start option, would it be possible to run the engine without hooking up the electric start until I am able to find a replacement harness? Or, has anyone used a different harness that has worked?

Thank You for your responses.
 
The engine is a simple magneto, manual shift engine. Normally these type engines were manual start... the electric start feature was later added. As such you can simply rig up a few cables and a starter solenoid to have the electric starter operational... OR... use the manual starter to fire it up.

Notice the two black wires leading down from the armature plate under the flywheel. They are connected to the ignition points... one wire each to each point. When they're connected, the ignition is shorted (Ignition OFF), when they are not touching each other, the ignition is live (Ignition ON)... One of those black wires is also connected to a vacuum cutout switch on the port side of the powerhead, DO NOT disturb that connection.

These two black wire can be attached to a toggle On/OFF switch, a ignition switch that has two (2) "M" terminals on it, or a simply push button switch that would short out the two wires.

What I have done in the past is to have a proper size piece of plywood, laid the wiring harness over it, guiding the wiring in a natural pattern via brads or small nails, then making a new harness one wire (The Same Color or close) at a time. Yeah, it's a PITA but worth the effort.

If you had the flywheel off.... do not start that engine UNLESS you have torqued the flywheel nut to it'e factory specifications. To think the nut is simply tight enough will result in a sheared flywheel key and gouged tapers of the crankshaft and flywheel.
 
Do you want to start it from the helm? It is hard to find the original harness and all the bits and pieces. It wouldnt be that hard to make your own loop and mount the start solenoid under the cowl. It is wise to keep the safety switch working so you cannot start it in gear at high rpms. This is the simplified wiring diagram
http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/18-25_EL-START_TO_1972.jpg
Take away the shift and charging circuits on this one
http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/67_68_40HP.jpg
 
As long as the compression release is working good it should pull fairly easy but still can be a bear to start cold. Once the engine has been run and still warm they are real easy to pull start. If you flood it just sit down and fish for a bit.
 
Those are some spendy parts but will definately restore the engine to original. You would likely need all three harnesses. What condition is the junction box would be another consideration you may get lucky and find one in good condition used just keep an eye for a parts motor on craigslist possibly find the complete system in good shape?
 
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