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1958 , 25034 Lark

M

Mikey N.C.

Advanced Contributor
I've never seen the vacuum kill switch to shut down , if motor wants to run away and ground wire from ignition switch , sends ground to 1 set of points. Does anyone know exactly how compression release worked.
With a new 775 ? Marine cranking battery, it wants to lug ( no spin over strong, unless
I hold compression release just a little bit..
Thanks for information
 
Mikey N.C. said:
I've never seen the vacuum kill switch to shut down , if motor wants to run away and ground wire from ignition switch , sends ground to 1 set of points. Does anyone know exactly how compression release worked.
With a new 775 ? Marine cranking battery, it wants to lug ( no spin over strong, unless
I hold compression release just a little bit..
Thanks for information
Click to expand...
Has electric start, no generator, so at shop I , installed a 24 deep cycle, what . Should be used?
I'm at a lost on this system, the CDI, relies on battery voltage correct. If battery goes dead ? Motor won't run ?
 
Battery is what should be used. I don't understand where you are going with the wiring question. It has magneto ignition, not CDI. It will run without a battery. When you pull the recoil start rope. it opens the compression relief valves, reducing the compression to make it easier to pull the rope. Thats what you are doing by holding them open while cranking with electric starter. Bottom line is the electric starter is weak, or not getting enough juice from the battery,
 
Ok guys, when thru carb, with new gasket set but didn't include the gaskets or diaphragm for water choke. I've set idle needle at 1 - 1/2 turns out. High needle at 3/4 out( know it has to be done,on water at wot). Made sure points were clean and set at .020 as said on flywheel. Carb has manual choke lever off automatic,or choke. Found starter issue. Connected battery ground straight to starter, from junction box. No problem cranking now.
Problem I'm having now is it will crank an run ,
( Not sucking air , have a tygon fuel line now so I can see) it runs good for about 1 minute, then pick up like u advanced timer base , the coughing and sneeze then shuts down. I can crank rite back up and does same thing. I've tried adjusting the the idle screw, different ways. I've sprayed case half . Is it a possibility that a condenser or points can cause this cough and sneeze or is it a lean condition?
 
More likely it is running out of gas. Will it stay running if you squeeze the primer bulb? BTW, about those hot water chokes: Some people may like them, but most don't. I advise people to flip it to choke-off position once the motor starts and warms up a tad.
 
If I leave full choke in for two to 5 rotation it floods carb quick., Can flip lever back it cranks easy. Then like I said it, own its own picks up timing then cough and sneeze , then sneeze hard , like not good. Bare with me guys I'm 57 yd. Have worked on QD's but not this
 
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