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1957 Johnson QD-18 10hp missing and broken parts

timguy said:
That motor makes me nervous.....as Racer said: "good luck with it". He's been professional marine repair about 10 years longer than I've been walking the planet. If one piston is moving and the other is not....then what's that tell ya?
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I just cleaned up the cylinder with a scotch brite pad and some wd-40. Cylinder walls are fine. Both pistons move now. That picture was taken right after I popped the head off, all I had done was drain the fluid I had in there. Tapped the heads of the pistons lightly with a block of wood and a mallet to shock the rust. After I did that the rear cylinder started turning again. With rusted crank bearings this motor likely wouldn’t of even started turning in the first place.
 
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I have gotten some seized motors ( freebees ) to turn.----Then take them apart right after.----Often the bearings are scrap !----I rarely try and start a seized motor these days.-----No point to it.----Yes it may run , but not for 30 years
 
racerone said:
I have gotten some seized motors ( freebees ) to turn.----Then take them apart right after.----Often the bearings are scrap !----I rarely try and start a seized motor these days.-----No point to it.----Yes it may run , but not for 30 years
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Since Spring is coming up soon I plan to get it running for Spring and use it for the season, giving me time to find everything I'll need for the rebuild and let me clear out my garage of outboards a little, currently I wouldn't even have enough room to tear it apart. the motor was definitely recently rebuilt as their is new hardware for a lot of the motor and there was a new head gasket. I'm going to have to find torque specs, bearings, gaskets, how to even do it. I'm not one to dive into a motor and hope I do it right. either do it right or do it twice
 
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Good....for now. The problem of a rusted bearing will not show up right away, if the journal is pitted. Then it will start to wear and eventually develope a knock, and continued use???.....could throw a connecting rod, then your case is gonna likely be ruined.
 
I’ve called defeat for this motor. It’s been soaking for over a week now, repeated tapping etc and it still hasn’t changed which leads me to believe that their are walls of crud on the backs of the pistons that I can’t get through since it’ll move fine for about an inch then just stop. I’m getting ready to tear it down. How can I find gaskets for it and info on how to tear it down?
 
To quote a now-banned former member: "don't listen to the naysayers". Give it a light hone and put it back together. Use lots of oil and bathe the thing in lube while you're doin the old in and out (gosh that sounds duuuurty) The thing will run forever and the more abuse you throw at it the more it will love you for it. If it smokes more than usual who cares. Just run it. That's why it's all f'd up, cz it got ignored. Look how fat the rings are! They don't build them like that any more.
As for the bottom end, all the small evinrude/johnson bottoms are the same on these small hp engines. Find another one and make one good one from two bad ones.
Also, there's a long shaft kit that consists of a longer shift rod, water tube, extension housing, and longer bolts. I put one on one of my Fastwin 18. Works great.
This diagram should apply:
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...=7522&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Gear+Case
 
o2batsea said:
To quote a now-banned former member: "don't listen to the naysayers". Give it a light hone and put it back together. Use lots of oil and bathe the thing in lube while you're doin the old in and out (gosh that sounds duuuurty) The thing will run forever and the more abuse you throw at it the more it will love you for it. If it smokes more than usual who cares. Just run it. That's why it's all f'd up, cz it got ignored. Look how fat the rings are! They don't build them like that any more.
As for the bottom end, all the small evinrude/johnson bottoms are the same on these small hp engines. Find another one and make one good one from two bad ones.
Also, there's a long shaft kit that consists of a longer shift rod, water tube, extension housing, and longer bolts. I put one on one of my Fastwin 18. Works great.
This diagram should apply:
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...=7522&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Gear+Case
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Thanks, not sure what I’m going to put the motor on yet. If I’m going through the trouble of tearing this motor apart I’m sure as hell keeping it! I’ve gotten everything off the motor today and tomorrow the powerhead is coming right off!
 
Excellent, thanks, o2. The waterslide decals are WAY better. Then I clear coat over them with epoxy.
 
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