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1957 Johnson QD-18 10hp missing and broken parts

C

Colezay

Regular Contributor
Hi everyone, I just got a 1957 Johnson QD-18 10hp and it’s missing a couple of parts.

missing swivel plate and retainer on one.
shifter hand snapped
propeller broken
part of skeg missing

is the skeg necessary to replace? Just the end is broken off and I don’t plan on going anywhere with it that it’ll hit the propeller. Propeller is broken fin snapped off, looks to be due to sitting though. Also it appears the swivel plate is not available on this website.
 
Time for you to join your local chapter of the -----aomci------There you will find your best friends with lots of nearly free parts.------Also a free --" wanted ad " ---section , swap meets with quality parts.
 
Best do a compression test and take a look at rings and pistons through intake side covers, ( if compression is low). Then decide from there.
The skeg should be fixed. It's wise to protect that prop even when storing and transporting. If it's gonna be a fix up motor, then I can help with parts or Tim's Outboard in Hackensack MN 218 682 2331. If it needs coils, points, and condensers, water pump and things like that, this site here at Marineengine is as good as any.
The skeg can be removed and welded also that is easy to ship if you want to get it repaired. There may be someone locally that can give you a fair price also. If I had the skeg in my hand I would charge about $35 to repair it. Cast aluminum should be used, but not absolute. I always try to repair cast with cast. Most alloys are compatable, however, but filler material, (welding wire), is important. I like 4043 for most repairs. It contains 5% silicone with which makes it a more attractive weld, slightly less crack resistance. However, it is lower in sheer resistance than some other fillers like 5356 which contains 5% magnesium.
 
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I don’t have the broken skeg piece sadly, it looks like it broke being moved around, not from hitting anything. It’s seized currently and stuck in forward so that doesn’t help
 
I guess you get what you pay for.-----Like more fun ( and cheaper ) looking for motors than a golf ball at a fancy resort.
 
racerone said:
I guess you get what you pay for.-----Like more fun ( and cheaper ) looking for motors than a golf ball at a fancy resort.
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For the price I got it for you can’t beat it, $35. And for some reason all outboards are more expensive in the north east. The motor in its current condition is worth around $150 here, they sell running for around $500-ish. Got it into neutral and the lower unit is slightly freed up, I can get it to turn over around an 1/8 of a turn with decent pressure.
 
Ok I’ve tried getting it unseized, I can’t. I’ve gotten the lower unit unstuck, it’s a big tight but it turns (in neutral of course) It has had Marvel mystery oil and pb blaster in it and it still doesn’t turn. I said to hell with it and tried as hard as I could to get it to turn and the ratchet started bending before it started turning. I know fluid is slowly making its way down the cylinder as the level has dropped a bit in the cylinders. How should I get it unstuck or should I let it soak for longer?
 
Take the covers off the sides of the cylinders and take a look. Might be your gonna give it up for parts. If it doesn't look bad, then remove the head and clean it up, then see if you can rock it loose back and forth while cleaning and oiling. If water was in the bearings, then the crankshaft might be shot. I got a parts motor here if you have decent cylinders and need a crankshaft.
For the skeg....no parts needed. Have a prop here too.
Note to Racer: Chasing a golf ball is good exercise, they say "golfers live longer". Kind of a stupid sport, however, when you stop to think about it.
 
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To me the motor looks like it was put away for the winter and never taken out again, fuel filter was cleaned and carburetor looks like it was rebuilt. Sadly that theory matches up with how I obtained it, bought it off someone whose husband died last December, was left covered since then. I’m going to let it soak longer, hasn’t been soaking too long, about 1 day, most motors I fix unseize by then, they were 3hp’s though, I guess the bigger the piston the harder they get stuck. I’m going to try to spin it over daily and if by a week it doesn’t budge I’ll take the head off and check the condition of it.
 
It doesn’t look like water got into the crank, pulled off the side cover for one of the pistons (that was all I could reach without pulling the whole motor out) and the piston looked fine, no rust or anything that would indicate a very stuck motor. If it doesn’t get spinning over in a week of soaking I’m going to take the head off, if it looks relatively clean I’m going to get a wood block and hit the piston. Or I might also try ATF and acetone, although I heard they don’t mix well
 
You need some different screw drivers.-----Look for an offset one.----People have gone to the moon.---Surely you can figure out how to remove a few screws here.
 
I have an socket from an impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer) it fits on a ratchet, perfect for getting screws unstuck. I’m going to see if it fits in the gap.
 
I'll second Racer's advice on joining AOMCI. I did in November (on his advice) and it was well worth it. I had been struggling with some old salt motors that were really more trouble than they were worth, and 2 weeks ago I picked up an extremely clean QD-17 at a swap meet for a sweet price. Most of the folks in the FL chapter are ready with free advice and many have good parts motors and project motors at prices too crazy to mention. Easily 75% or more cheaper than ebay.
 
Yeah I really should join AOMCI, definitely will when I have the chance. Just going to let it soak for a couple of days for now.
 
I’ve got good news! It moves a little! After soaking for 3 days I went outside and I took off the second cylinder cover, it looks fine in there and I can see the rings and they look good. I then put a wrench on the flywheel nut and it moved maybe 1/6 of an inch, and you can hear the pistons moving ever so slightly, it’s a beginning! I worked it back forth only a little bit and it’s already starting to move a tiny bit more, I’m going to let it soak longer and tomorrow I’m going to do the same thing! Hopefully it’ll free up!
 
Acetone and automatic transmission fluid don't stay mixed but before you spray it you reshake it in your oil can.... The reaction really helps to blast the rust. As you might expect it works best when it is fresh.
 
Ok, so after looking at the rings through the exhaust covers the top cylinder (closest to flywheel) is freed up but the bottom cylinder is still stuck, the bottom cylinders rings are also slightly rusted. I’m tempted to just put a breaker bar on it but I already know what will happen. I’m going to try to make some of that ATF/Acetone mix and put it in the bottom cylinder. I’m going to use a syringe with some tube to avoid getting it on anything. How long can I let the mixture sit in the cylinder before I replace it due to it separating? Edit* found out it eats up plastic so can’t do that. How can I make sure I don’t get it on anything? Could I just let it evaporate out of the cylinder?
 
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I suggest you take this motor apart.-----If water got on the lower crank roller bearing the motor will be stuck.----If you do get it running as is then it may not last long.----Good learning project.
 
racerone said:
I suggest you take this motor apart.-----If water got on the lower crank roller bearing the motor will be stuck.----If you do get it running as is then it may not last long.----Good learning project.
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I doubt this motor needs a tear down since one of the pistons move, I can also see the other piston has rusted to the cylinder. I’ve already torn down one engine before, prefer not to do it again. It was sitting in a barn when I found it
 
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If it has bad crank bearings I’m just going to junk it, the outboard is not worth the amount of time and effort it’d take to repair it. You gotta stop at one point.
 
timguy said:
Take the covers off the sides of the cylinders and take a look. Might be your gonna give it up for parts. If it doesn't look bad, then remove the head and clean it up, then see if you can rock it loose back and forth while cleaning and oiling. If water was in the bearings, then the crankshaft might be shot. I got a parts motor here if you have decent cylinders and need a crankshaft.
For the skeg....no parts needed. Have a prop here too.
Note to Racer: Chasing a golf ball is good exercise, they say "golfers live longer". Kind of a stupid sport, however, when you stop to think about it.
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I took the head off and it looks pretty dirty but I’ve had worse run, slight pitting on the cylinder wall, not too deep to lose too much compression though. Some sanding and soaking and it’ll spin. (Not with sandpaper... lol) it looks worse than it feels, I can run my finger along the cylinder wall and it doesn’t feel bad at all
 

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That motor makes me nervous.....as Racer said: "good luck with it". He's been professional marine repair about 10 years longer than I've been walking the planet. If one piston is moving and the other is not....then what's that tell ya?
 
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