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150hp johnson not ficht 2000- bogs down above 1800rpm-power pack??

BASS2277

Member
I have a 2000 150hp Johnson-carbaurated not injected. Starts OK and idles OK. Get it off the trailer and idle to takeoff-runs fine. Pound the throttle and it gets out of the hole as always. After about 1/4 mile, check engine alarm sounds and it bogs down. I turn engine off and restart. After you go back to idle and try it again-the same ting happens. I have been given the thought that it is the power pack. I don't want to spend that money based on a guess. Any thoughts?? I am stumped. Thanks
 
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What year is the motor? If it's '91 (I think ?) or newer you should have a System Check gauge or Tach with System Check built in. Either way, if you get an alarm there should be a light illuminated next to the device that's failing. It will show either "No oil", "Water Temp", "Check Engine", or "Low Oil". Do you see any lights when it happens?

When was the last time you changed the thermostats? If you're getting a water temp warning maybe the T-stats are clogged up and you aren't getting good water flow?

Does the engine spit/sputter, idle rough, cough, or any other symptom when when it bogs? If yes, then it could be an ignition issue. you'll need to go one by one and check for spark on each cylinder. Here is a link to a good guide for troubleshooting the OIS 2000 ignition system on a V6: http://www.go2marine.com/productcenters/electrical/johnson-evinrude-1991-2006.pdf

You problem could also be a fuel delivery issue. There is a vacuum sensor on the fuel line and if a restriction occurs it trips an alarm. Does your primer bulb go flat when this happens? If so you could have a problem with the anti-siphon valve in the fuel tank, your fuel selector switch, the primer bulb, or a collapsed fuel line (internally).

It's also possible you're getting an alarm from the VRO fuel pump itself. I'm not great diagnosing these so others will have to chime in here.

Sorry there's no simple "here's your exact problem" answer. You'll have to do some troubleshooting to find exactly what is causing the alarm to sound.

KJ
 
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Hi kevin--thanks for the reply. The motor is a 2000 and it does have the system check feature attached to the key start switch. When you turn the key on, there is a single beep to indicate all systems are hooked up. The check engine alarm and light is what goes off above 1800 rpm when the engine bogs down and is rough. If you turn the engine off and restart, it seems to idle fine with no alarms. When you take off again, it bogs down again within a 1/4 mile and the check engine light and solid horn go off again.

Thanks for your input and i will go to that link and try to further things along. Best regards, mke
 
Hi and thanks for your observation this is a double. It was an accident when i hit the wrong button. If you know how to get rid of it-i would. Anyway, i am getting some valuable advice on troubleshooting this damn thing. Thanks again-mike
 
Does the fuel tank have an anti siphon valve? If so why not trial the engine on a portable fuel tank under the same operating parameters to see if the results are the same. If it does not exhibit the same problem, I would suspect the anti symphony valve is sticking partially closed.
 
Having retired in 1991, and losing track of the engine designs... I have no idea if that 2000 150hp Johnson is a 60 or a 90 degree design... or if it is a cross-flow or a loop-charged model. However my interest is peaked with your problem and i need to know in order to comment.

60 or 90 degree?....

Cross-flow or loop-charged?....
 
Mike... If by "Bogs Down" the engine is suddenly dropping down to 2500 rpm (and holding there), and the alarm is constant and steady, that would indicate that a overheat situation is still in progress and the S.L.O.W. feature would be taking effect. BUT..........

Still, if the alarm is steady and constant and the rpms drop below 2500 rpm, especially if the fuel primer bulb tends to collapse somewhat, I would, as "reidd01" suspects... a fuel restriction, as follows:

(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Many of the later OMC V/6 engines incorporate a fuel restriction warning via a vacuum device attached to the powerhead. If the engine overheats, or if you have a fuel restriction, the warning is the same.... a steady constant beep.

NOTE... Only the V/6 & V/8 engines have the above "Fuel Restriction Warning". The warning horn will not sound on the other models.

The fact that a engine is not overheating, but the warning horn sounds off with a constant steady beep, and that the rpms drop drastically would indicate that the engine is starving for fuel due to a fuel restriction. Check the built in fuel tank where the rubber fuel line attaches to the tank fitting. That fitting is in all probability a "Anti Siphon" valve which is notorious for sticking in a semi closed position. It will be aluminum, about 2" long, and the insides of it will consist of a spring, a ball, and a ball seat. If this valve exists, remove it, knock out those inner components which will convert it to a straight through fitting, then re-install it. Hopefully that cures the problem.

The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve.

NOTE: There has been cases when the output valve in the fuel primer bulb would come apart, and the inner portion of the valve would actually reverse itself and be drawn back into the primer bulb's output valve body. This in effect would create a shut off valve and result in a fuel restriction. If this is the case, you should be able to feel something laying in the bottom of the primer bulb when held horizontally.
 
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Joe--thanks very much. I think you have given me a path to proceed. I would like to test the vacuum switch first to make sure it is functioning properly. How do i do that?? The motor is 18yrs old and i have had it since 2010. This is the first trouble i have had with it. I think i should just go ahead and replace the anti-siphon valve along with a new 3/8" hose and new primer bulb. I will complete these repairs next week and see if we are good and problem solved. Is there anyhing else i should do while i'm at it?? Thanks again and merry christmas. I apprecate your inut.
 
To see if it is the vacuum switch actually causing the warning horn to sound... simply disconnect the tan wire attached to it. That'll break the ground connection leading to the warning horn.

As far as what else to check besides what you've mentioned above... nothing comes to mind right at the moment. Let us know how it turns out for you.
 
I have followed your plan thanks to all!! The thermostats are good. I unhooked the vacuum switch and it sounded the alarm likr it was supposed to. I replaced the anti-siphon valve, bought new hose and a new bulb and installed. It has been very cold here but themotor has run without an alarm. I keep getting advice that itis the power pack but i can't find any reference that it activates the check engine alarm. Am i wrong??? I am taking it to the lake next week and keep you posted. Thanks again and we'll see. Mike
 
I have followed your plan thanks to all!! The thermostats are good. I unhooked the vacuum switch and it sounded the alarm likr it was supposed to. I replaced the anti-siphon valve, bought new hose and a new bulb and installed. It has been very cold here but themotor has run without an alarm. I keep getting advice that itis the power pack but i can't find any reference that it activates the check engine alarm. Am i wrong??? I am taking it to the lake next week and keep you posted. Thanks again and we'll see. Mike

Confusing... Disconnecting the wire leading to the vacuum switch should have made it impossible for it to cause the warning horn to sound.

Very cold there? Don't know where you are but I'm just a few miles east of Tampa, Fl. It's nice weather today but last week.... 38 degrees at 7am.... (ugh!).
 
Thanks joe- i just wrote it badly. The vacuum alarm didn't go off but the alarm did sound when i ran the motor. That is why i changedthe fuel stuff. The question is: Can a bad pwr pak set off the check engine alarm?? Thanks. Mike,
 
(Can a bad pwr pak set off the check engine alarm?? Thanks. Mike)

Not that I'm aware of but as said... I retired in 1991 so your engine may differ. I'll sit back and hope another member answers that question.
 
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