View attachment 2951
THe tube in the drive that connects to the pickup could be sucking air.That's whay the other guy replaced it with a through hull.
You can fix ANYTHING if you want to take it all apart and replace with new.
Or you can put a T on the pickup and run the motor and a live well.#19/17 goes bad.
Yes.... agreed. This would be the beaded gasket underneath the water neck fitting if I understand Jerry's comment.
View attachment 3011View attachment 3012.............
1..... what is the rubber thing that i am holding?
2
..... Does the corrosion on the timing belt cover matter? could i leave it be or buy a new one?
1..... The rubber part is the pump's drive cushion. It acts as a cushion between the engine counter-shaft and pump shaft.
2..... If the timing marks are visible, or can be made visible..... you'll be OK.
1..... So, how big a deal is taking the lower unit off?
2..... I did the top but didn't know about the part UNDER the gooseneck.
3..... The manual does not seem to describe removing the lower unit while it is still on the transom
4..... How many pieces fall on to the ground during the evolution?
5..... For the original posters boat, would an electric 12V pump be a quick, easy fix? He already has the thru-hull connection.
The OP has his question answered, so I guess a Hy-Jack is OK.
1..... See your OEM manual. 7 fasteners, and the lower unit is free to be removed.
FYI: if you suspect any corrosion, the 3 aft-most fasteners may require that the lower unit case to be heated in the area of the "thread inserts".
Heat this area prior to attempting to remove these bolts. (same with the water neck fitting bolts)
2..... This is the Water Neck that you're calling a "gooseneck"?
When the w/n and the beaded gasket are routinely replaced, you will not have any trouble here.
3..... Seloc, Clymer or OEM manual? Use the OEM.
4..... Nothing should fall to the ground!
5.... Any and all sea water pumps must be RPM driven.... meaning that the water volume is proportunate to, and predicated by engine RPM.
More RPM = the need for more cooling water and visa-versa.
***********
Just a reminder........ Post #7.... no need to remove the entire drive unless pivot tube issues or latch
unit bearing sleeve access is needed.
***************
Many do not understand that the Water Neck fitting special "beaded gasket" is what actually seals the water neck fitting to the top of the pivot tube.
The two components actually articulate here, so the bead needs to be greased....
not sealed up!
You can seal the flat surfaces if you wanted to..... but leave the bead/pivot tube contact area greased.
At the lower pivot tube "O-ring" seal, there is no articulation/movement..... iow, all rotate together 1:1.
****************
SEQ #'s 10, 17 and 8 are the Water Neck, special beaded gasket and upper
pivot tube bushing respectively!
NOTE: as per post #17, this image being shown is of the C-1 or later drive, of which would not have been OEM w/ the AQ131.
(just an FYI on that)